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Thread: Pinzgauer Diff Rebuild

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,Qld.
    Posts
    1,179

    Pinzgauer Diff Rebuild

    The work that I was doing on the Pinzgauer (called Arnie because he is Austrian and is a muscly little bugger ) got mentioned in the thread about the Bundaberg Swim In so I thought I should put up a separate thread with some details.

    In January last year we were heading down to Guyra for a military vehicle get together and met up with the Ho Hars at Beadesert Maccas. After our coffee we came out and Carolyn said "What is that puddle of oil under your truck?". Turned out that the rear diff had dumped almost all it's oil out on the carpark bitumen, not good, so it was back to Brisbane on a tow truck. Arnie then sat there for quite a while as the prospect of taking the whole diff out to replace the seals was a bit daunting. It is independent suspension and a backbone chassis so not like a Landrover at all. When Bundaberg came up again I decided I had to get him going again so finally ordered the parts from the US. It's actually cheaper to buy parts from there than from Europe. They arrived in time for me to have just under 4 weeks to do the job.

    This is a picture of Arnie up at Bundaberg for those that don't know what one looks like.



    I had read of being able to change the seals without actually taking out the whole diff so started to do that job. The rear axles come apart and the wheel drives (portals), brake drum and outer half of the axles comes off, of course not as easily as that as it required the making of a special tool to do it. But then I found that there was oil in places it should not be, not just in the places I thought it would be and that pointed to seals inside the diff that could not be got at so the whole lot had to come out.

    This is what it looks like without the rear diff unit there. Jack it up, put the body on stands and get it out.



    The unit comprises the transfer case, a distance piece with a drive shaft, crossmember, rear diff, locker, handbrake and tow hitch all joined together.



    Basically it is disconnected from everything then just lowered with the trolley jack and pulled out (it balances well if you get under it at the right place) then lifted onto a workbench with the engine crane. In the manual there is a very fancy looking cradle to put it on so it can be taken apart easier.



    These are all the bits as they get pulled off.

    Transfer Case (and the tools I had to make to get the axles apart)



    Distance piece and crossmember.





    Then start from the other end, Towing support.



    Handbrake housing (disc brake) and the long bolts that hold it all together.



    And that leaves the diff with the locker attached to the rear of it.



    The seals that had to be replaced are around the swivel ball of the independent axles and also inside the half axle which is the one that needed the whole diff pulled apart. I didn't take any photos of the inside of the diff but it is fascinating the way it works. This is a video that one of the suppliers in the US has put up to explain it all - [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9wNbXZf6wU]Pinzgauer Driveline Operation - YouTube[/ame] if you are interested.

    While it was all apart I spent a lot of time cleaning and painting everything and also discovered that the hydraulic slave cylinders for the lockers and 4wd activation needed to be rekitted. A mob called BHSS-TBS down at Capalaba always seem to be able to come through with this sort of fix, even for an odd vehicle like this. I also replaced every seal and oring that I could find in there as I don't want to have to do this again soon. Most of them came from a local seal place called AB Seals. I turned up there with the old seals and they measured and matched them all.

    This is where things start to look better, all clean, painted and put back together.



    Then the outer axles put on and back onto the trolley jack.





    From then on put it back in, get the bolts and shafts to all line up, put the suspension back in, connect all the brake and hydraulic lines, wires, handbrake
    and all that sort of stuff. Then get a little help from Harry to bleed the brakes and locker circuits and adjust the brakes, muffler and heat shield back in, put the new batteries in and get all the electricals going again then it started after a few minutes of cranking. Then take nearly two full days to clean it as the hood was covered in 18 months of dirt and bloody mould. Drive it to the garage for Petrol and up to the Autobahn to get some Vinyl Care and that was the extent of the test drives before driving to Bundaberg. It seems that I got things right though, no oil leaks at all and we got there and back. Now just have to fix the exhaust leak that developed on the way and revisit the leak from the seals at the top of the petrol tank that stop me from filling it right up.

    Cheers,

    TimJ.
    "Clancy" - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    "Henry' - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    "Gumnut" - 1953 Series I 80"
    "Poverty" - 1958 Series I 88"
    "Barney" - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    "Arnie" - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Tivat, Montenegro
    Posts
    2

    Pinzy rear diff

    Hey TimJ!
    I have a bit of an issue with rear diff on my pinzy as well.... it wouldn't release from 4x4 mode, so i took both the slave cyliniders off to both diffs, and then to the transfer case and diff oil poured out from the little hole the actuator pin sits in and filled up the chassis tube. Im guessing thats not supposed to happen!

    I guess the seals are cactus from the rear diff? From an expert, whos been there/done that, would you agree?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,Qld.
    Posts
    1,179
    Hi MontyPinz,

    Sorry for the time to reply but I didn't see this until I got told about it today.

    It's a while since I have been under there, have to do it again due to a split boot and beach sand, but it hasn't been on the road for a couple of years now.

    From memory the 4wd activation is a lever rather than hydraulic but the absolute best thing you can have is the manual. If that isn't available have a look on the Swiss Army Vehicle website in the US. They have the parts diagrams for all of the assemblys that will show you where any seals fit.

    Do you have a 4wd or 6? The drivetrain is very similar, just with the extra diff inserted where the handbrake on mine is but the suspension is totally different.

    Cheers,

    TimJ.
    "Clancy" - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    "Henry' - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    "Gumnut" - 1953 Series I 80"
    "Poverty" - 1958 Series I 88"
    "Barney" - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    "Arnie" - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    24,979
    good fun.

    these are the sorts of jobs I really like to sink my teeth into.

    next time break it in melbourne.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(parting/ed)
    Tdi autoManual d1 (Kept it for the girlfriend)
    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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