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Thread: Learning to Tune

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Learning to Tune

    Folks - As you might be aware, I have just got Matilda back complete with a rebuilt engine. This is great, but I need to set a few key parameters on the vehicle before I end up needing another rebuild.....

    Firstly, the fuel mix screw on my Solex was taken out when a new kit was put through it. I have the instructions as to how to reset this, but I can't pick when it hunts, one of the steps in setting the mix right.

    I also need to reset the timing properly, because last weekend, the condenser blew, and the distributor was messed with thinking it were to blame. I also want to set the points gap correctly then learn how to read the dwell angle to set them that way thereafter.

    I have a automotive multimeter which should allow for all of these items to be accurately set....just would appreciate some hands on guidance so it's done properly.

    And I want to learn the "bulb method" for timing.....

    I am thinking that a combination of too lean/too rich and bad timing is only going to damage my valves, so Matilda is going nowhere until I can resolve these things. I'd just take it to a mechanic and get it right if I could, but no-one will go near a 1956 Land Rover - there again, I'd prefer to be able to do all of this myself.

    Might we organise a workshop where we address these items, and even film it for this area's archives?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    more than happy to lay it on for you for your practice runs and then when youve rehearsed it you can do the vids.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(its responded well to its lecture about poor performance)

    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Happy to look on

    Dan,

    Hello again.

    If this turns into a workshop opportunity, I would be happy to sneak onto the list.

    Cheers,

    Neil

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3ute View Post
    Dan,

    Hello again.

    If this turns into a workshop opportunity, I would be happy to sneak onto the list.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    You will, Neil.

  5. #5
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    Anyone else reckon they can fly an automotive multimeter to calculate dwell angle after we set the points gap with feeler gauges?

    And looking at where the rpm is hunting with a auto multimeter once the mix is made richer?

    Bulb timing? It would be a great skill for Series drivers to master and several old hands might help to pool knowledge.

    Anyone else got anything to offer?

  6. #6
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    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
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    whack a diesel in it Dan

    2000 110 Hardtop

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    whack a diesel in it Dan
    Sacrilege. The 2 litre spreadbore is a masterpiece that gets confused with a tractor engine.....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland
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    Hi Dan
    We always used to (and I still do) use a timing light with dwell angle gauge built in. Kills two birds with one stone so to speak!
    You really should be able to hear (and feel) the engine revs change as you wind the idle mixture screw in and out. Try winding the screw right in, does it stall? It should!
    If it doesn't there is another problem. Problems can include revs too high so the carby is starting to draw fuel out of the main jet, or air/fuel leaks internally, or blocked idle passages.
    Cheers, Martin

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by marting View Post
    Hi Dan
    We always used to (and I still do) use a timing light with dwell angle gauge built in. Kills two birds with one stone so to speak!
    You really should be able to hear (and feel) the engine revs change as you wind the idle mixture screw in and out. Try winding the screw right in, does it stall? It should!
    If it doesn't there is another problem. Problems can include revs too high so the carby is starting to draw fuel out of the main jet, or air/fuel leaks internally, or blocked idle passages.
    Cheers, Martin
    It does stall, Martin. There is nothing wrong with the carby.....nothing wrong with any of it. I can hear the engine revs change when I adjust it, but doesn't hunt mean go up and down? I can't pick that - just up - or down.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Brisbane, Queensland
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    170
    Hi Dan
    The engine doesn't need to hunt as such. What you are really looking for is the sweet spot where the idle is the smoothest (generally also the fastest). Try winding the mixture screw in until you hear the engine revs start to slow and then wind the screw out about 1/3 to 1/2 a turn. This should be close to the correct mixture, and the engine should be happiest here. Check by continuing to wind the screw out, the engine revs should change (slow) again within at most another full turn.
    Also this needs to be done with the engine at normal operating temperatures.
    Cheers, Martin

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