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Thread: Switching to Electronic Ignition

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Ipswich QLD.
    Posts
    1,586
    I have a Lumenition kit in my Game, it was on it when my father in law bought the vehicle in 1982, no issues with it yet.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1968 SIIa SWB
    1978 SIII Game SWB
    2002 130 Crew Cab HCPU

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,Qld.
    Posts
    1,159
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    Given my far less than satisfactory experiences with automotive electronics I would use a points distributor and a Jaycar electronic ignition kit that uses the points as the trigger. These can be installed so that WHEN (not if) the electronics fail, you swap around two wires and continue on your way on points.
    One of the main reasons for using electronic ignition is that the points wear on the contact point with the shaft and change their settings as they wear they also pit and wear on the actual points where the spark happens and reduce their efficiency over time. The EI that Dan has ordered is the same as what I put in mine quite a while ago and has no mechanical or electrical contact points to wear.

    Cheers,

    Tim.
    "Clancy" - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    "Henry' - 1976 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    "Gumnut" - 1953 Series I 80"
    "Poverty" - 1958 Series I 88"
    "Arnie" - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Aaaaaaaa
    Posts
    5,834
    Set ups that use the points as a trigger are not utilising the Hall effect sensor type mechanism and my research indicates that units that don't (Hall effect type units effectively use a magnetic field to regulate output voltage) are less reliable. Likely in part at least, for all the reasons Tim puts above. Let's see how I go. I have faith!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    10,208
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    Given my far less than satisfactory experiences with automotive electronics I would use a points distributor and a Jaycar electronic ignition kit that uses the points as the trigger. These can be installed so that WHEN (not if) the electronics fail, you swap around two wires and continue on your way on points.
    In the dim dark ages of the later 1970's and 80's I fitted many transistor assisted "Ultra" ignition boxes. They were quick to change back to points. Some still pass through my hands to this very day. However most owners didn't/wouldn't know how to check points to save their lives so I eventually gave up and went fully electronic. (I had one guy ring me and tell me he had checked his points and they were fine! What he had done was apply a dwell angle meter to the electronic output instead of getting out a feeler gauge! Moron!)The Crane kits worked well too, the optical pickup didn't require the removal of the points cam so you could in theory go back to points at any time. I never had one fail.

    The trouble was though was of course that the vehicle owners were simply unable to manage the task and so the effort was basically wasted. For the last 20 odd years I have been going fully electronic instead, using manufacturer's OEM components where possible. While failures still occur, the cost of spares is now so low you just carry a set of electronic spares as needed. Any repair is then permanent and doesn't need a fiddle later. It's the reasoning behind my Lucas module replacements, a coil, Bosch module and spare pickup pack quite tightly.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    713
    Accuspark I think.
    I will check tonight.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Aaaaaaaa
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    In the dim dark ages of the later 1970's and 80's I fitted many transistor assisted "Ultra" ignition boxes. They were quick to change back to points. Some still pass through my hands to this very day. However most owners didn't/wouldn't know how to check points to save their lives so I eventually gave up and went fully electronic. (I had one guy ring me and tell me he had checked his points and they were fine! What he had done was apply a dwell angle meter to the electronic output instead of getting out a feeler gauge! Moron!)The Crane kits worked well too, the optical pickup didn't require the removal of the points cam so you could in theory go back to points at any time. I never had one fail.

    The trouble was though was of course that the vehicle owners were simply unable to manage the task and so the effort was basically wasted. For the last 20 odd years I have been going fully electronic instead, using manufacturer's OEM components where possible. While failures still occur, the cost of spares is now so low you just carry a set of electronic spares as needed. Any repair is then permanent and doesn't need a fiddle later. It's the reasoning behind my Lucas module replacements, a coil, Bosch module and spare pickup pack quite tightly.
    Was thinking of chucking an entire extra module under the seat as a spare....at $50.00, why not?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Aaaaaaaa
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    Switching to Electronic Ignition

    Well, now I'm really ****ed off.

    So, I take the kit to 'ol mate the auto-electrician to fit for me. I had 2 kits in the car, because I had ordered one for a DM2 dissy, thinking that was what I'd need. My original dissy is a DM2....my new dissy will be a DM2, right? Well, my new dissy from Craddocks is actually a 25D, which I hadn't realised until earlier this week....so I reordered a kit for this type of dissy - now I have 2 kits, and was going to return the DM2 version for a full refund.

    Anyhow, the 25D kit is the right one, but we find the magnet part that slides onto the rotor shaft is too small a diameter for my shaft???? I ring the kit's seller - he tells me all 25D's have a 16.5mm diameter shaft and if not it'll be close enough if we just push it on. Well, my shaft is 17.5mm diameter and it simply won't fit. To make things worse, we tried filing the magnet to make it fit....got to bare metal and decided that might make it fail if it were used. It would still not go onto the rotor shaft.

    But things got worse - 'ol mate opened the dm2 kit to try it's magnet - it was exactly the same. Thing is, the seller had asked me if I'd opened either kit when I asked about returning them. Needless to say, when I spoke to the seller of the kits, I was even more ****ed off to have it confirmed that he wouldn't accept returns if they had been opened. So basically, no kit will fit my distributor because the bloody shaft is too large a diameter.

    So now I have 2 electronic ignition kits - 1 for a DM2 that is in perfect order, and a 25D kit perfect except for the magnet. And a ****e quality copy of a 25D that is so far out of tolerance it's a joke.

    I rang fair trading - they confirmed that if there were nothing wrong with the kit, then the seller is within his rights to not acceprt it back opened. I was quite surprised by that, but there you go. I have sent Craddocks an email too, explaining the issue with the dissy, and will try to get them to accept it back and return my money. The implications are that when using points, a feeler gauge will set an incorrect dwell angle because the increased diameter of the rotating shaft will result in slower times per rotation. The shaft diameter within a class of distributor should be the same.

    I've decided to send an email to simonbbc and explain this sorry tale, and get him to send me a replacement electronic distributor to replace my original DM2. IF anyone has a DM2 or a 25D dissy in their Landy, and would like to try EI, let me know and you can try the kit. I have enough parts between the 2 kits to set up either distributor properly and with unmolested parts.

    It's no good to me, so someone might as well get the benefit of my $100.00 down the drain.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,Qld.
    Posts
    1,159
    Damn, that's no good. Is that what you tried to ring me about this morning? I have been off at meetings etc all day and didn't get home till after 7 so haven't had a chance to call you back.

    Why would they make a dizzy with a different shaft size? Can understand the guy not wanting to take the kits back though they often will if the contents are all there as well as the packaging and have obviously not been used.

    Craddocks are usually pretty good so worth a try but it does depend who they got them from.

    Cheers,

    Tim.
    "Clancy" - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    "Henry' - 1976 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    "Gumnut" - 1953 Series I 80"
    "Poverty" - 1958 Series I 88"
    "Arnie" - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Aaaaaaaa
    Posts
    5,834
    Quote Originally Posted by Timj View Post
    Damn, that's no good. Is that what you tried to ring me about this morning? I have been off at meetings etc all day and didn't get home till after 7 so haven't had a chance to call you back.

    Why would they make a dizzy with a different shaft size? Can understand the guy not wanting to take the kits back though they often will if the contents are all there as well as the packaging and have obviously not been used.

    Craddocks are usually pretty good so worth a try but it does depend who they got them from.

    Cheers,

    Tim.
    G'day Tim - yeah! Thought I'd call you before I stabbed myself in the neck with a plastic fork I found at the railway station.....

    Things have got somewhat better. Craddocks have acknowledged the dissy they sent me is crap....and I'm getting my dosh back - minus my freight cost.

    Meanwhile, I spoke to Inc. tonight who swears by the high energy dissy/low resistance coil combo made by Powerspark.....Pommy manufacture. I'm talking to simonbbc about it.....looking at getting a Powerspark high energy 25D electronic dissy with side exit cap, coupled with a low resistance coil. He's chucking in a set of black leads - which will look better than than the blue silicon jobbies I have now. I can overhaul my original DM2 (with points + condenser) in my own time, keeping too my current coil, and have a full conventional backup if ever the need arises.

    Unlike some commentators, most people I trust assure me that this happening will simply never occur. Can only hope so!

    I just can't understand why people are not jumping at electronic ignition. So - I'm going to offer in the AULRO markets a full Electronic ignition kit suitable for either a DM2 or 25D dissy for $40.00 - it'll come with a 2nd Hall sensor mech free - that's $15.00 less than you can get anywhere else (plus a second "brain") and it's completely new, unmolested, and good to go....any club members want it? I'll throw in a rice cooker free!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,444

    I'M interested

    Dan,

    Hello from Johannesburg - having a beer or two getting ready for the long traverse home.

    I am interested in your kits if they will fit my truck. It has a 2.25l - supposedly 1969 vintage.

    Get home tomorrow, but almost immediately head back across to Perth for the week.

    Cheers,

    Neil

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