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Thread: Frozen relay

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    Neil , as said fill it with oil the bushes in it are fiber. It doesn't hold much but takes a while to fill with an oil can & you will get sick of pumping it in . You will probably find the bottom seal will need replacing. I filled mine with floating grease , the grease they use in the swivel hubs on later LR's but is a little harder to get in I used a grease gun that will take oil as well as grease. Once the bushes are will oiled it should free up.
    Wayne
    Wayne,

    Hello from Darwin - thanks.

    Genuinely appreciated.

    How’s the rain at home?

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3ute View Post
    Wayne,

    Hello from Darwin - thanks.

    Genuinely appreciated.

    How’s the rain at home?

    Cheers,

    Neil
    Raining on & off all day & getting heavy showers over night. Having to pump 100mm out of the pool every couple of days. I think there is a lot more still coming.
    Wayne

  3. #13
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    Wayne,

    Hello again and thanks.

    We’ve had a lot of rain around Sherwood. Raining heavily there again today-tonight I believe.

    I’m back on Sunday and planning to get stuck back into the truck during the week.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  4. #14
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    Filler holes

    Hello again from Sherwood.

    Just wanting to confirm that the filler hole on the relay is actually one of the two bolt holes (of the set of four on the cover at the top) that is oriented at 90 degrees to the two cross bolts that hold the relay in place?

    I have taken two bolts out and have been syringing a mix of ATF and distillate into one of the holes - extremely slow. Warned that it would be slow, but it doesn’t seem to be going in as quickly as some YouTube clips suggest. It also isn’t voiding air or fluid from the opposite hole which I had expected.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  5. #15
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    According to my manual, any of the four bolt holes can be used.
    John

    JDNSW
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Rather than grease I would be inclined to fill it with light oil. I agree with Dave, it almost certainly has no oil and is rusty, but this treatment is likely to return it to sort of serviceable condition. You may need to replace the bottom seal (in situ) , which can be done safely, to keep the light oil in, and this is clearly needed anyway to keep the normal EP90 in.

    Depending mainly on how long it has been oilless and how much driving has been done with it that way, it may be OK with this treatment, or a full overhaul may be needed. Or at least disassembling it to check the condition of the shaft and bushes.

    As Dave indicates, do not attempt to remove the shaft without reading the manual.
    Agree, but I'd try a 80/20 mix of ATF/Acetone, which has amazing penetrating qualities. Of course, I have no idea if Acetone is contraindicated in the relay, but I doubt it ( someone will ). Of course, this would need to be drained and flushed and refilled with the correct stuff, but it will likely get it moving. Better than removing the thing from the chassis...... but, the ATF/Acetone mix is handy for that as well.... As is a Porta Power, some chain, and an oxy set.

    Good luck.
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    Agree, but I'd try a 80/20 mix of ATF/Acetone,
    what he says above!
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  8. #18
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    Hello again.

    I’ve been using a mix of ATF and distillate so far - very slow to get it in via the top holes.

    Also, not been effective yet. Still live in hope. May shift to acetone if nothing improves over the coming days.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  9. #19
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    Hello from Sherwood.

    I did free the relay up a bit with a combination of atf and distillate plus repetitive swinging of the top arm back and forth with the aid of a long square section steel bar. However, it isn’t great and I decided it probably warranted pulling the guts out and reconditioning it anyway.

    Here’s the challenge.

    The relay housing is stuck in the chassis and several weeks of irrigating it with the atf/distillate mix plus a couple of weeks of sitting on a car jack with repetitive hits with a drift and hammer from the top and bottom sides hasn’t made much difference.

    So, it’s a bit of a crossroads. Pull the innards out and refurbish it in situ or try some form of pressing or pulling it out of the chassis to do the same in a vice?

    My quest is to find someone in Brisbane who has actually accomplished an overhaul using either method. Anyone out there with first hand experience?

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  10. #20
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    to overhaul in chassis....

    2 options..

    1 build a press around the chassis cross member and use a proper press.....

    2. improvise a press....


    how goods your welding?

    an improvised press is as simple as 2 pieces of H beam, some big washers, inch thread all and nuts to suit coupled with a 10T jack.
    Dave

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