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Hello again.
Returning to the earlier question - anyone in Brisbane extracted a stuck relay from a chassis without wrecking the crossmember or replaced the innards while the housing was still in the crossmember?
Keen to get some first hand insights into the procedures that were used.
I seem to recall reading somewhere that getting the two upper half bushes into their correct position can be extremely trying - the inner housing hasn’t got parallel walls?
Cheers,
Neil
I have rebuilt around 7 or 8 relays some in situ. The relay housings can be rusted into the chassis and can only be replaced by cutting out the cross member . This is when the relay needs to be rebuilt whilst still in the cross member. Rebuilding in situ is no harder than rebuilding on the bench.
Be careful of aftermarket replacement relays , they are not a tight fit in the chassis tube. If necessary jam some shimsteel around the circular section to create a tight fit. If the the relay is not a tight fit in the chassis it will rock back an forth and crack the chassis , a problem I had with my military 2a. Required some serious welding to fix.
I live in sydney so will not be able to help you in Brisbane.
The ring bolted to the bottom of the crossmember is supposed to be a tight fit on the bottom plate of the relay, and takes the side load. It is not necessary for the relay to be a tight fit in the chassis.
X2Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
that bottom ring is all thats needed...
As you have gone through all the soaking & bashing etc of the body to chassis, now place a Hydraulic Jack under the relay shaft & lift it so the wheels are off the floor & the weight is on the jack after loosening the ring bolts holding the relay into the chassis..
Overnight, this pressure of the front end weight can sometimes allow the relay to come out of it's own accord.
Good luck.
Neal,
I am not sure if I am correct here , correct me if I am wrong ,but not everyone can see your post in the SLOWS section unless a member of SLOWS you may get more responce if you post your question in the Series 111 section at the top.
Wayne
Hello again.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bee
Nice thought but, unfortunately, after perching on the jack for a fortnight with ongoing irrigation and knocking it hasn’t moved a jot.
Starting to prepare for an in situ effort - Just waiting for all of the NOS parts to arrive.
Cheers,
Neil
Wayne,Quote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
Hello and thanks.
You’re obviously correct there. However, I try to give the SLOw site precedence in the vague hope that it might motivate the odd member to come on board.
Must admit that’s not been the overall experience to date. Occasionally I sneak over to the Series 3 site with technical questions - usually if I’m in a hurry or given up on the SLOw site.
Cheers,
Neil
Hello again and thanks - yes, I was aware of all that wrt original and aftermarket diameter. I have a replacement machined retaining ring optimistically set for the original housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Looseness of fit is the last of my concerns at the moment - might be an issue should I get to the happy state of refitting the relay.
Cheers,
Neil
Something I have not tried, but occurred to me as something that might help is to try and scrape a lot of the rust out of the gap by working from below with a hacksaw blade or similar.