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Thread: Frozen relay

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,142
    Hello again.

    Returning to the earlier question - anyone in Brisbane extracted a stuck relay from a chassis without wrecking the crossmember or replaced the innards while the housing was still in the crossmember?

    Keen to get some first hand insights into the procedures that were used.

    I seem to recall reading somewhere that getting the two upper half bushes into their correct position can be extremely trying - the inner housing hasnít got parallel walls?

    Cheers,

    Neil
    Hon Secretary - SLOw Inc

    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  2. #22

    Steering relay

    I have rebuilt around 7 or 8 relays some in situ. The relay housings can be rusted into the chassis and can only be replaced by cutting out the cross member . This is when the relay needs to be rebuilt whilst still in the cross member. Rebuilding in situ is no harder than rebuilding on the bench.
    Be careful of aftermarket replacement relays , they are not a tight fit in the chassis tube. If necessary jam some shimsteel around the circular section to create a tight fit. If the the relay is not a tight fit in the chassis it will rock back an forth and crack the chassis , a problem I had with my military 2a. Required some serious welding to fix.
    I live in sydney so will not be able to help you in Brisbane.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    24,644
    The ring bolted to the bottom of the crossmember is supposed to be a tight fit on the bottom plate of the relay, and takes the side load. It is not necessary for the relay to be a tight fit in the chassis.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    4511
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    19,383
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The ring bolted to the bottom of the crossmember is supposed to be a tight fit on the bottom plate of the relay, and takes the side load. It is not necessary for the relay to be a tight fit in the chassis.
    X2

    that bottom ring is all thats needed...
    1995 Defender 130 Dualcab Ute

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  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
    Posts
    6,216
    As you have gone through all the soaking & bashing etc of the body to chassis, now place a Hydraulic Jack under the relay shaft & lift it so the wheels are off the floor & the weight is on the jack after loosening the ring bolts holding the relay into the chassis..


    Overnight, this pressure of the front end weight can sometimes allow the relay to come out of it's own accord.

    Good luck.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    2,651
    Neal,
    I am not sure if I am correct here , correct me if I am wrong ,but not everyone can see your post in the SLOWS section unless a member of SLOWS you may get more responce if you post your question in the Series 111 section at the top.
    Wayne

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,142
    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Overnight, this pressure of the front end weight can sometimes allow the relay to come out of it's own accord.
    .
    Hello again.

    Nice thought but, unfortunately, after perching on the jack for a fortnight with ongoing irrigation and knocking it hasnít moved a jot.

    Starting to prepare for an in situ effort - Just waiting for all of the NOS parts to arrive.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    Hon Secretary - SLOw Inc

    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,142
    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    Neal,
    I am not sure if I am correct here , correct me if I am wrong ,but not everyone can see your post in the SLOWS section unless a member of SLOWS you may get more responce if you post your question in the Series 111 section at the top.
    Wayne
    Wayne,

    Hello and thanks.

    Youíre obviously correct there. However, I try to give the SLOw site precedence in the vague hope that it might motivate the odd member to come on board.

    Must admit thatís not been the overall experience to date. Occasionally I sneak over to the Series 3 site with technical questions - usually if Iím in a hurry or given up on the SLOw site.

    Cheers,

    Neil

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,142
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The ring bolted to the bottom of the crossmember is supposed to be a tight fit on the bottom plate of the relay, and takes the side load. It is not necessary for the relay to be a tight fit in the chassis.
    Hello again and thanks - yes, I was aware of all that wrt original and aftermarket diameter. I have a replacement machined retaining ring optimistically set for the original housing.

    Looseness of fit is the last of my concerns at the moment - might be an issue should I get to the happy state of refitting the relay.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    Hon Secretary - SLOw Inc

    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    24,644
    Something I have not tried, but occurred to me as something that might help is to try and scrape a lot of the rust out of the gap by working from below with a hacksaw blade or similar.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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