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Thread: Frozen relay

  1. #41
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    Hello again.

    I’m not thinking at this stage of the process that the inner locating tube will be terribly corroded. The truck lived most of its life in a semi-arid environment in western NSW.

    What I am finding as I poke away at the gap is a loamy mix of dirt and oil. It would likely have had enough moisture ingress in there over the years to form a bonding paste with the help of some surface rust from the tube and housing. The lake of atf/distillate that I irrigated it with for several weeks probably added to the mix as would the penetrating fluid that I have been firing up into the working face over the last couple of days.

    It is a laborious process picking away at it chip by chip - needless to say - but I’m getting there. As noted, I’m about halfway around the bottom profile getting in to a depth of about 25mm. It would be nice if it could be cut away using a hacksawing motion, but that’s not the drill. Rather, it is a case of picking away at the face of the cut and occasionally cutting through at the point where the housing diameter reduces a fraction.

    The next half is probably going to be a bit tougher because the housing base isn’t perfectly centred to the tube - or vice versa given the way these things were built. The next half is almost touching the welds around the tube base. So, getting the blade in will get progressively harder - plus the front diff housing is progressively sited below the handle of the keyhole saw reducing the potential length of stroke.

    I’m actually hoping that once I’ve cleared, say, about three quarters of the way it may respond more positively to some sideways pressure from the drift and sledge - sufficient to release or failing that be more responsive to another round of jacking.

    Anyway, the earlier question remains alive - can you reassemble a relay from the top? Or must it be effected from the bottom of the housing?

    Cheers,

    Neil

  2. #42
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    Neil ,
    Good to see that you have had progress with removing that steering relay when I called in today .
    Wayne

  3. #43
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    WOT! He's actually done it no bull****?

    Break out the Champers, quick. Sounds like it was worse then having a baby. Not that I'd know, you understand.

  4. #44
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    As far as I can tell the steering relay can be assembled from either end.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    WOT! He's actually done it no bull****?

    Break out the Champers, quick. Sounds like it was worse then having a baby. Not that I'd know, you understand.
    See is believing IMG_6287.jpgIMG_6288.jpgIMG_6291.jpg

  6. #46
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    and when you put it back in fit a couple of rubber bands to the top and bottom and fill the cavity with turntable grease.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  7. #47
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    Unless you are extremly lucky Neil, I bet that is the most satisfying withdrawl you have ever had.

  8. #48
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    Congratulations!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Congratulations!
    Thanks.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    Wayne,

    Hello again.

    Thanks for your support and interest with the ongoing project - appreciated.

    I won’t go into gory detail on the extraction but can confirm that it fought all the way. Happily, however, it proved to be non-destructive in terms of collateral damage to either myself or the truck.

    Not sure if there is a 9th dan black belt for Land Rover restorations, but having worked over a steering box, removed the chassis bushes with a hacksaw blade and, now, extracted a stuck relay armed with an ageing keyhole saw, lake of penetrating fluid and 80 year old hydraulic jack, feel that I must have passed some sort of threshold.

    Now to pull it apart....

    Cheers,

    Neil

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