One lives in hope.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bee
Cheers,
Neil
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One lives in hope.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bee
Cheers,
Neil
Neil,
You just need to bite the bullet , or in your case SPRING. Just undo those bolts & let it fly.:spudnikhalfback:
JUST A THOUGHT .You could make up a board with two blocks of wood screwed to the board with the gap the same width as the shaft or a bit wider , secure the housing to the board then undo the screws. That way the spring can only expand as far as the blocks, then the will be less tension on the spring.
Wayne[bighmmm]
Wayne,
Hello again.
You’re about three posts too late.
I gutted the relay yesterday morning without any undue excitement. It simply came out without much force into the old blanket that I had shrouded around the base.
I was never really afraid to do it - just wanted to check with anyone who had actually stripped one to see how big a reaction they got from the spring. Again, “everyone knows” they explode but it’s hard to find someone who has experienced it.
Cheers,
Neil
So when you got it apart did you find any reason for the steering being tight
Wayne,Quote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
Hello again.
I’m still not entirely sure - the lower check washer and tufnols look like they have been dry and the seal on the lower cover plate wasn’t in the best of condition. The inner shaft, spring, tufnols and thrust washers don’t look too bad and the inner walls of the housing isn’t showing much sign of scoring. The uncompressed spring is a little shorter than the new spring, but I haven’t yet measured it to see whether it is still within the limit suggested by the workshop manual.
There was a small amount of oily fluid inside the housing, but I had been injecting a fair bit of the atf/distillate mix through the top holes in the weeks that I was trying to free it up. If even half that mix had actually penetrated past the top tufnols it should have been full.
So, my thoughts for now are that it lost its sealing capacity at some time, went dry and siezed. Also, that the atf/distillate mix barely penetrated past the top washer and what did was probably assisted by the action of turning the shaft back and forth with a large piece of pipe over the upper arm.
Like many an old farm truck, I’d guess that the relay was likely never checked or serviced from the time that it was rolled off the assembly line.
Cheers,
Neil
Attachment 164775 Neil, If you have this type of relay shaft were you fill with oil through the hole in the top of the shaft you can use the hole arrowed with a pin through it to wind the spring down with a hose clamp around the bottom bush then once wound down fit & clamp the top bush. This is the type I have in my relay but yours being a S3 it may be different.
Wayne,Quote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
Hello again.
Thanks.
The relay from my truck is the later type with the solid inner shaft. Unless I can borrow or fabricate something akin to the proper service tool - reassembling it will require the more complicated approach of building removable spring holders and deploying multiple clamps to hold the compressed spring and tufnols in place while they are being driven into the housing.
Again, I have all of the parts, and a pretty good idea of the procedure required, but have yet to collect the necessary bibs and bobs to put it into practice.
Cheers,
Neil
Hello from Sherwood.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Belated response - that is correct. All four bolt holes access an inner cavity ring near the top of the housing. Visible in this photo:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...02db7ce6_b.jpgRelay_28 by Neil Mac, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b2afeded_b.jpgRelay_29 by Neil Mac, on Flickr
While on the topic, the bore isn't badly scored but I seem to recall someone mentioning running a brake hone through it - is that correct?
Cheers,
Neil
that or a bottle brush hone, just enough to remove any surface rusting/ridgingQuote:
Originally Posted by S3ute
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Appreciated.
Cheers,
Neil
