Page 1 of 9 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 90

Thread: Frozen relay

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,375
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Frozen relay

    Hello from several thousand feet above the Gulf of Carpentaria - usually Sherwood.

    I’m in need of serious advice - preferably of the useful variety.

    My truck has been parked up under my house for about five or so years and the steering relay has seized up at some time during that period of idleness. Here I’m talking about it’s ability to rotate as part of the steering rather than the body seizing in the chassis crossmember.

    It was jammed tight but I was able to shift it with hits from a rubber and polythene headed mallet. But it didn’t really free as part of that process - it’s still can’t be moved except by belting it. So, I don't know what is going on inside the thing, and whether the central shaft is stuck to the tufnol bushes and the bushes are turning or what not. Repeated applications of penetrating oil over weeks have achieved nothing to date.

    I’m pretty sure that extracting the whole relay from the chassis will turn into an exercise in genuine grief - it’s been there in all likelihood since at least 1975 and painted over at least twice.

    What are the options?

    I had been planning to find the filler and drain bolts and refill it anyway - would that help? Otherwise, can the relay be overhauled without removing the body from the crossmember?

    I suppose, at the end of the day (plan D) is to cut the crossmember out and refit in a new section and search around for a repairable relay. Not something I hope to have to do. Plus the jungle drums seem to suggest that the general run of aftermarket relays enjoy poor longevity.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,215
    Total Downloaded
    0
    no oil in it and it rusted.

    there isnt an ulta easy fix but sometimes packing them with grease and working it back and forth will help. (if it works its a bodge not a fix)

    also if you've only undone the pitman arm and left the steering box attached you might not be looking at a siezed relay but a failed steering box.

    the relay box can be overhauled in situe if you are both luck and brave (very very + taken a whole bottle of clarksons brave pills) there is a spring in there that is under the "I'm not kidding" (say that with mechanics words in your head) class of compression.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,805
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Rather than grease I would be inclined to fill it with light oil. I agree with Dave, it almost certainly has no oil and is rusty, but this treatment is likely to return it to sort of serviceable condition. You may need to replace the bottom seal (in situ) , which can be done safely, to keep the light oil in, and this is clearly needed anyway to keep the normal EP90 in.

    Depending mainly on how long it has been oilless and how much driving has been done with it that way, it may be OK with this treatment, or a full overhaul may be needed. Or at least disassembling it to check the condition of the shaft and bushes.

    As Dave indicates, do not attempt to remove the shaft without reading the manual.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,375
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hello and thanks for the prompt responses and suggestions.

    Yes, I was well aware that they are a potential grenade. But, again, the reminder is warranted.

    No, the steering box was removed for overhaul - the relay is doing it all on its own.

    In the first instance I’ll try filling it with oil.

    Cheers,

    Neil

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,215
    Total Downloaded
    0
    the reason I prefer grease over oil is the ease of getting it in.

    Adapt a nipple to suit and pump away. with the grease going in under pressure you'll force it past any rust (as it will have air behind it which compresses) which gets "smeared" out as you move the internals around.

    Oil generally works in a better way but grease is faster.

    I'f you're going to use oil I'd be throwing a mix of ATF and Diesel in there using a smallish syringe.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2,375
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    the reason I prefer grease over oil is the ease of getting it in.

    Adapt a nipple to suit and pump away. with the grease going in under pressure you'll force it past any rust (as it will have air behind it which compresses) which gets "smeared" out as you move the internals around.

    Oil generally works in a better way but grease is faster.

    I'f you're going to use oil I'd be throwing a mix of ATF and Diesel in there using a smallish syringe.
    Thanks again.

    Appreciate the quick and useful response.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,805
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Some grease guns at least will pump oil quite satisfactorily..... (When I was little my father's car specified oil in the tie rod ends (at 500 mile intervals), and he did what the manual said.)
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,215
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Some grease guns at least will pump oil quite satisfactorily..... (When I was little my father's car specified oil in the tie rod ends (at 500 mile intervals), and he did what the manual said.)
    not one made by landrover and not most of the chinesium ones you buy today.

    We had one at work that the plunger fit in so badly once the pullback was released it slowly pushed its way all the way through the cartridge. (yes pulling it back expelled a goodly amount out the hole the pull back shaft exits)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you take the top cap off you can fill it with oil much faster.
    The oil has to travel past the gaps between the ends of the Tufnol bush and you're normally trying to dribble it in via one of the bolt holes. For the sake of a gasket (or just gasket cement) removing the top cap is much easier.

    You can replace the seal at the same time to stop water getting back in.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    3,922
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Neil , as said fill it with oil the bushes in it are fiber. It doesn't hold much but takes a while to fill with an oil can & you will get sick of pumping it in . You will probably find the bottom seal will need replacing. I filled mine with floating grease , the grease they use in the swivel hubs on later LR's but is a little harder to get in I used a grease gun that will take oil as well as grease. Once the bushes are will oiled it should free up.
    Wayne

Page 1 of 9 123 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!