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Thread: Hub flange gaskets

  1. #11
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    A final check on bearing adjustment - drive 10km, and go round feeling hub temperatures. Unless you have been using the brakes, all hubs should be very little above ambient temperature - but it could be dragging brakes as well, with both needing to be corrected.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Sod’s law....

    Hello again from Sherwood.

    Sitting opposite my truck and wondering WTF!

    Proceeded to undertake the task of setting the end float of the hub bearings as previously canvassed in this thread.

    Happened to attack the hub on the recently replaced front outer swivel housing - subject of another previous thread - first up. Tightened the hub to 110 ft/lb and on rotation noted a firm episodic resistance and metallic sound as it turned. Slackened it off and rotated again and still the same albeit less obvious. On closer examination the rear of the hub near the seal housing is catching on a couple of the heads of the bolts that hold the stub axle and brake backing plate to the swivel assembly. These bolts appear to be in as far as the design engineers had first intended. The precision of the diameter of the hub casting might not have been so, as it clearly isn’t perfectly round - hence the episodic vs constant catching with the bolt heads.

    I went across to the other front hub and tightened it to 110 ft/lb and then followed the rest of the recommended procedure - worked perfectly. So, I was wondering if the issue was slight differences in the casting diameter of the hubs themselves at the point of contact - I suspect that mine came off a couple of different vehicles at some time in the past. To check that, I took a hub off the rear axle and went back through the same procedure on the offending front axle. Same as before - a couple of the bolt heads are interfering with the edge of the hub as it turns.

    This leaves me with a couple of possibilities - one being that the replacement swivel housing that I picked up last week is somehow different to the other one that is on the truck or something else. That seems to be fairly unlikely - the something else might be that the heads of the bolts that are making contact with the hub as it rotates are not exactly set at right angles to the turning hub - ie. the edges are catching at critical points but not enough the prevent the hub from turning. Seems odd, and I hadn’t thought the tolerances would have been that tight, but I don’t seem to have too many options other than to undo the lock tabs and reset the heads at right angles and see if that makes a difference.

    Tomorrow maybe since I cracked my Solihull patience and forgiveness quota for today.

    Anything else to consider?

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  3. #13
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    D’oh!

    Hello again from Sherwood.

    Replying to my own post - I seem to have found the answer. Rather than delete the previous post, largely to avoid a bit of embarrassment, I may as well share the revelation.

    I had partly already answered some of my earlier musing - might not the individual hubs be different even though for all purposes they appear to be identical? I sort of knew they were - because the differentials and axle assemblies on my 88” truck likely came from a 109” at some time in the past. It has a Salisbury rear diff and axles - although the axle casing must have been modified for the 88” rear spring set up. The driving flanges front and rear are obviously different - but I recalled that the casting marks on the hubs were also different when I was cleaning them up ages ago.

    So, thinking that the right hand front hub had been installed without issues, whereas the front to rear swap on the other hadn’t been a success, the possibility remained that the hub on the other rear axle stub and the one on the front that was OK might be a pair. Swapped it over and it was fine....

    Who’d a thought?

    The idea of turning the bolt heads as a solution looks a bit silly in the clear light of day.

    Still giving it away for the day while my luck is holding out.

    Cheers,

    Neil

  4. #14
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Lesson to be learned - when disassembling anything, and planning to put the same part back in, make sure you keep track of where similar bits came from - they might look the same, but that does not mean they are.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Lesson to be learned - when disassembling anything, and planning to put the same part back in, make sure you keep track of where similar bits came from - they might look the same, but that does not mean they are.
    Hello again from Sherwood.

    Yes, you won’t get an argument from me there - I thought that I had kept the individual hubs and driving flanges together as sets but they must have been mixed up when they were painted. Apart from the driving flanges front and rear, in this instance, being different in terms of splines, the hubs at face value appear to be identical. Of course, as the discourse revealed, they aren’t, although the dissimilarity in tolerances at the critical point are very small. I had mistakenly assumed that two different suppliers were making the same part at different times.

    I did take a lot of care to keep the bearings and cones together as discrete sets.

    Cheers,

    Neil

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