For the last 20 years or more I haven't used gaskets on the driving members. I just clean well and use Hylomar and have never had a problem with them.
Hello again from Sherwood.
Still poking away at reassembling the axles and hubs on my Series 3 88” - a few misadventures along the way, but still more ahead than behind.
But, I have another poser of the “may or may not matter” variety, but probably worth getting put straight on in case it does.
The driven plate/driving flanges on each hub have a paper gasket (231505) to seal the mating surfaces between the flanges and the hubs. On my truck the inner faces of the front and rear driven plates have a uniformly round profile whereas the sealing surfaces of the hubs have the six pointed star like profile common to the trucks. So, that will be the effective maximum sealing surface.
On the hubs the narrowest point across the sealing surface of the star profile is about 8-9mm. On the paper gaskets that I have this width is only 5mm. So the gasket is narrower than the surface it is meant to be sealing by ~40%.
In case my gaskets were some aftermarket curse from the UK, I rang one of the dwindling parts supply places around Brisbane to see if their gaskets were the same as mine (5mm at the narrowest place) and apparently they are. Very likely Britpart should that be relevant.
Here’s the question - does it matter?
Cheers,
Neil
For the last 20 years or more I haven't used gaskets on the driving members. I just clean well and use Hylomar and have never had a problem with them.
1975 S3 88" - Ratel
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
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I have used paper gaskets, either ones like you have or ones I have made. The only leakage issues I have had is the bolts coming loose, which inevitably seems to be a telltale for too much free play on the wheel bearings.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Hello again from Sherwood.
Thanks for the collective pieces of advice - appreciated.
Being stuck here in splendid (social) isolation, I decided to stick with using a paper gasket dressed with Hylomar. So, I grabbed a compass from my daughter's old school desk, some craft scissors and a scalpel and made up a set with gasket paper.
Gaskets3 by Neil Mac, on Flickr
Gaskets4 by Neil Mac, on Flickr
As my late father in law might have said - a blind man would be pleased to see it.
Moving on past the gaskets - the various workshop manuals specify setting the end float of the bearings with a dial gauge. I don't have one and I'm also fairly confident that a lot of people have refitted hubs without using one either.
I have replaced box and boat trailer bearings on a few occasions without subsequent mishap - just used the 'tighten until they start to bind and relax a quarter turn' rule of thumb. However, looking across a few YouTube clips, including the excellent series from Geoffrey Croker and another by Steam Wally, the advice is that this rule will very likely give excessive end float.
So, my question is - what are people doing when setting the bearings without using a dial gauge?
I suppose another question might be - is anyone in relatively close vicinity to Sherwood willing to lend their dial gauge for the exercise?
Cheers,
Neil
1975 S3 88" - Ratel
I find it easier to adjust the end-float with the wheel on. You should just be able to feel a bit of play when rocking the wheel. It is important that the end-float still exists after you've tightened the second nut. If not start again. When you remove the wheel the hub should spin freely without any resistance or end-float.
.W.
are you going oil or grease?
The hubs and bearings are packed with grease.
Cheers,
Neil
Hello again.
I was trying the respond to the post immediately before this one with a quote and managed to inadvertently delete its contents.
Apologies and happy to see it reposted if possible.
Cheers,
Neil
1975 S3 88" - Ratel
to rectify the missing post info...
tighten the inner to about 150nm spin the wheel, retighten and spin again. repeat until the 150nm stage doesnt move the hub nut.
back off about half a turn and without moving the wheel tighten to about 50nm
add the lock tab
tighten the outer nut to about 150nm
fold the lock tab
usually gets pretty close to 0/0.
Dave
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