Printable View
If it won't go on aerostart, its ignition.....or stupidly flooded:D
Timing, advance till it pings, or becomes hard to crank, then retard till both symptoms are no longer, do so on whatever petrol you choos to run, this is optimal timing, without changing advance curves etc
Timing marks and figures are just a base line...they are NOT optimum timing/advance
LPG not connected at the moment as it needs a new converter. So I think I will set it up for normal unleaded at the moment and when the new converter is in the LPG man can tune it to run on both fuels - just want to to run at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Garry
Oh, you set your timing on the road on fuel as LPG can handle alot more advance, than LPG, put Premium in, don't be a tight ass, that way you can run more timing prior to ping;)Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
Engine started again perfectly this morning but gets harder to start as the engine gets hotter. I will see what happens with new plugs etc.
Garry
Garry, does this engine have good compression? And did you say the spark is OK?
The reason I am asking about compression is that the amount of vacuum available to lift the carb slides during cranking is reduced dramatically with worn valves/ rings etc, therefore making it difficult to get adequate fuel/ air for ignition. Cold starts are slightly different because the choke dumps extra fuel in rather than choking off air like other 'lesser' carbs.(I have seen a early flapper type EFI 3.5 have such low compression that it barely opened the flap during cranking enough to trip the fuel pump contacts:eek:)
Anyway, just a thought....:)
JC
I have no reason to doubt the level of compression - the engine pulls Ok and performance is what it should be however when I replace the plugs during the week I will do a compression test to double check. To ensure the LPG mixer was not strangling the engine (it does have a small orifice) I have taken it off while testing so the carbies are getting a full dose of air - also replaced the carby diaphragms as a precaution. The point I need to check is whether I am sucking in air somewhere but nothing is obvious.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
I have only tried No 1 cylinder spark at this stage as it is too hard to test the HT lead with waterproofing gear on it. The spark is strong (I got zapped) but when cranking, the spark is not always regular - as well there is considerable spark on the points so the condenser may have failed.
So I will do the easy things first like new plugs, points and condenser and go from there.
Cheers
Garry
That is a very definate possibilty Garry.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
JC
Another possibility is the coil. I have had a few vehicles that at various times the coil broke down as it got hot. The motor would cough and splutter a bit as well.
have seen rotor buttons do what is happening to yours..
my first v8 disco did a similar thing and it drove me nuts for two days till i swapped the rotor and away it went.
there was no visible fault on the one that was playing up and when not under load it worked just fine.. bit of heat and load and it died...
Faulty ignition modules will do the same, also coils, they are fine until warm, then fail, replace all ignition components
once more, if it won't run on aerostart it IS ignition trouble;)