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Thread: Wheel Stud PCD. (Stud pattern)

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    If you're just after the 'Landy look', then this might be an easier option, it depends what you want to achieve.
    Rather than trying to convert/modify a Landy chassis, this one was built on a Holden ute chassis and running gear, thus keeping the mechanicals simple and cheap, but achieving something very different looking with the Landy body. It probably wouldn't be that hard to change the wheel stud pattern if you wanted to run Landy rims.
    I thought it looked pretty good in the flesh, it was very noticable.

    Murray



    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  2. #12
    Chad Guest
    Thanks guys

    Yeah i was going to go along the lines of the L300 and 9 inch but if I remover the front diff as such, after talking to the engineer, he has said then it needs a collapsable steering column and heaps of other mods as techincally it ISN'T a 4wd anymore as they are a lot more lienant in there rules.

    I was thinking of reseting springs and moving the mounts, if need be.

    I have sourced a Hot rod type wheel, 20 inch hight that can be drilled from the factory to suit the 5 x 6.5inch stud pattern and can get slight wider for the rear. They also have alot of offset options from very negative to very positve....

    I was thinking deep dish at the rear 9close to centre offset) and probablt have to meausre up front, as the narrowest wheel i can get is a 20x8inch.

    I have been sourcing some 225/35/20 tyres for the front, and some 325/50/20 for the rear.

    Try and give it that rod look.

    In reagards to lowering I am probably at an up hill battle whichever way I go. engineers reports for L300, nine inch etc around $3000, really having trouble justifying it.

    Surely there must be a way to lower the front, retaining the original diff? I was going to remove a couple of leaves, and the have them reset to adjust height....

    When you talk of the bumpstops, where exactly will it only allow this 2inches, and even if spring hangers/and reset springs are used still not possible?

    I also plan to install a 3.9 and auto out of a disco, running a edelbrock manifold, and a single holley(small0, maybe have the air filter out the bonnet a little.

    I will remove the front tailshaft and after speaking to a few people today was told something along the lines of leaving in DIFFLOCk the transfer case, and will be like neutral, but thats a bit off yet.

    My plan is apart from the springs etc.. I will be able to change back to a LEGAL state if ever im in trouble for the MODS....

    Does anyone have an IDEA on suspension and ways to lower while retaining the original DIFF?

    Thanks Chad

    I appreciate the input, I know its not everyones cup of tea, but if we all did the same things, the world would be pretty BORING..

  3. #13
    Chad Guest
    That is exactly what i had in mind.....

    Bit late now after i purchased the landy already...

    Chad..

    If I knew how to put pics up, I have a DRAG car with a blown 2000hp HEMI, and lenco running 7s on the quarter, the panels are modified to fit the tube chassis, but is almost all genuine series 1 stuff.

    Just a little wider, lower and longer..

    Chad

    That pic when was it TAKEN??

    Was it registered, as NOW thats the biggest battle...

  4. #14
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad View Post
    That pic when was it TAKEN??

    Was it registered, as NOW thats the biggest battle...
    I took those pics several years ago.

    I remember talking to the owner and he said he registered it as a 'street rod'. The funny thing was it was registered as a 'Land Rover street rod' even though the body was the only Landy part.

    Murray
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  5. #15
    Chad Guest
    Thanks mate appreciate it...

    thought about that too, but in NSW if its a Street rod, it can only be driven at CLUB events...

    If you are pulled over etc... and not registered IN with THE CLUB and on one of their ORGANISED runs, then its classed as UNREGISTER/UNINSURED vehicle...

    I might just cut the bump stops out, and raise them right up, as im using 20 inch tyres, it will probablt look lower than it is.

    Another trick is to add a extra type, sill panel under the door/behind front wheel back to the end of the cab, its amazing what it does for the AFFECT, and looks really low without actually being that low....

    Thanks again Chad...

    Any ideas about the lowering would be good if anyone has any...

  6. #16
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad View Post
    In reagards to lowering I am probably at an up hill battle whichever way I go. engineers reports for L300, nine inch etc around $3000, really having trouble justifying it.

    Surely there must be a way to lower the front, retaining the original diff? I was going to remove a couple of leaves, and the have them reset to adjust height....

    When you talk of the bumpstops, where exactly will it only allow this 2inches, and even if spring hangers/and reset springs are used still not possible?

    I also plan to install a 3.9 and auto out of a disco, running a edelbrock manifold, and a single holley(small0, maybe have the air filter out the bonnet a little.

    I will remove the front tailshaft and after speaking to a few people today was told something along the lines of leaving in DIFFLOCk the transfer case, and will be like neutral, but thats a bit off yet.

    My plan is apart from the springs etc.. I will be able to change back to a LEGAL state if ever im in trouble for the MODS....

    Does anyone have an IDEA on suspension and ways to lower while retaining the original DIFF?

    Thanks Chad

    I appreciate the input, I know its not everyones cup of tea, but if we all did the same things, the world would be pretty BORING..
    Sorry, the coilers will lower by about 2", the leafers which you are talking about have about 100mm clearance between the axle and the bumpstop (mine does at least) and the bumpstops are abouit 50mm thick so there is about 150mm before the axle would hit the chassis. You may want to check diff clearance with the motor though as that can get close. I have a 3.9V8 in mine with Landcruiser axles and it will be close.

    For the springs, I'd look to have them reset. If you pull leafs you will get the axle wrapping (twisting) and it will destroy the springs, especially with a V8 and fat rubber.

    Also, if you run it in RWD I would put money on the rear diff or axles failing.

    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  7. #17
    Chad Guest
    Thanks mate

    Appreciate the pic..

    Lots of good info and people here..

    I can SLEEP now, i get a little addicted to my projects.... .

    I will post a pic of my Landy racecar when I work out how.

    Again not everyones cup of tea. But something out of the ordinary.

    thanks for all the info.

    Chad

  8. #18
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    <snip>
    Slunnie

    Aint there a few bits missing in that pic?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  9. #19
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Slunnie

    Aint there a few bits missing in that pic?
    Yeah! The 2.25 petty was replaced with a 3.9V8 which is why the mounts were cut off and the front crossmember was refabricated with another in a more Stage1 like position for clearance. The crossmember under the gearbox was also notched at the same time for more propshaft clearance so I could increase the suspension travel.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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