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Thread: TD5 Exhaust gasket replacement

  1. #1
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    TD5 Exhaust gasket replacement

    I am getting a small amount of exhaust blow by at the, No. 1 cylinder (front of engine), and have noticed that one bolt is missing as well - I hope it has not broken off.
    My plan is to replace the exhaust gasket in the near future and want some advice.
    Should I buy all new studs or buy oversize studs in the event that I break a stud -(which from my reading appears to be a common occurance)?
    Or would I be better off trying to cut the nuts off with my dremell first and save the hassels with the studs. I was thinking of trying to soak the nuts in some sort of penetrating fluid first and then either try and heat the nuts or try some Loctite freeze on the stud just prior to removing them.
    While the exhaust manifold was off I was going to attack it with the angle grinder and remove the webbing to try and destress it.
    Where would be a good place to order the parts from?
    Anything to watch out for when removing the turbo?
    There is also an engine block coolant plug (?welch plug) just behind the exhaust manifold between 3rd and 4th cylinder that is weeping a bit of coolant, and will replace this at the same time - do these screw out or do the just pull out - if it just screws out can i put some sort of goop on it to seal it or just go for a whole new plug?
    Any other advice greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    hte plug should be a knock in type plug, so its one in one out.

    use a drift and small hammer hammer in one side so it turns 90 degrees then reef it out with a pair of vice grips.

    the studs on the td5 do occasionally have a habit of working loose near the end then its just a case of time till they vibrate out.

    while youve got it apart therese several schools of thought on grinding out the webbing on the exhaust and elongating the holes on the manifold. the search button is your friend for this.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    hte plug should be a knock in type plug, so its one in one out.

    use a drift and small hammer hammer in one side so it turns 90 degrees then reef it out with a pair of vice grips.

    the studs on the td5 do occasionally have a habit of working loose near the end then its just a case of time till they vibrate out.

    while youve got it apart therese several schools of thought on grinding out the webbing on the exhaust and elongating the holes on the manifold. the search button is your friend for this.
    Ummm, I think he means its the plug on the head even though mentioning the engine block. if its a TD5 the plug is a screw in type, with a standard thread. Dont do anytyhing with a hammer on it. It has a hex head for an allen key. Some new sealant and a a refit will have it good to go again.

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    correct, the head ones are screw in, no hammering them....
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
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    Strangy,
    What type of sealant would you recommend? Do you know the Hex size - I thought it looked more like a square rather than hex shaped?

    Crash

  6. #6
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    Plug is 12mm hex. Pics here.http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...lant-plug.html
    If you are going to buy sealant, may I suggest Loctite /Permatex (same company) Grey sealant. Simply because you will have other applications suitable for it, other than this plug. It is a non acidic cure sealant, therfore is sensor safe and will not cause corrosion. Other brands with the same properties are fine also.

    If you feel you would like to purchase the most technically correct sealant then you have a choice of many, but easily available from engineering supplies and some good auto places is Loctite 567.
    As an aside Loctite "Grey" sealant is OEM for most Jap and many European Manufactures and "Blue" for most US. The blue stuff will fill marginally larger gaps.

    If you have any sensor safe silicon type sealant, Grey, Blue or Black, then use it.
    A small bead around the shoulder of the plug is all you need.

    87835_Do_It_Right.pdf (application/pdf Object)

    Attached should be a Loctite application chart, so you can make your best choice, if you feel at all concerned using what you have on hand.

    Cheers.

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