Please help!! (third or fourth driving light thread)

or these ones from ARB

http://www.arb.com.au/resources/imag...s/brackets.jpg


Martyn

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Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

I have the same ARB deluxe bar and was going to fit big lights on it until I measured the Clearance so ended up with 175s

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You mean like these?
http://gallery.mac.com/rovertech/100...12539406060001

No mods to fit...

I'd just go see a small private crash repairer and sweet talk him into a quick weld job...

Might cost you $50 or a slab!

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Originally Posted by dullbird

but get some anti theft nuts and i reckon it would look ok.

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An excellent thief deterring trick is to drill the end of the stud an appropriate size and after installing and aiming your lights, drive a roll pin through the hole of sufficient length to prevent the nut being screwed off.

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Originally Posted by B92 8NW

I'm sorry, this is possibly the third or fourth or fifth thread I've started on driving lights but I seriously need some help thinking of a solution.

I have this style of ARB winch bar:



I'm trying to fit a set of driving lights of these dimensions:

http://www.britaxae.com.au/xrayvisio...Dimensions.jpg


The problem is that in order for them them to fit I need to re-drill the holes on the mounting tabs as far forward as possible (right up to the round tube where they are welded on) and even in this position there is only one millimetre of clearance between the light body and the top rail. This in itself is no problem but the nut is unable to be tightened because the gusseting/reinforcing for the winch is directly below precluded access with a socket/spanner.

I bought a piece of flat stock with the intention of extending the mounts forward by another 25mm but in this position the nuts are visible/exposed which looks dicky and presents a theft risk. I can't find any locknuts the thread either, they're supposed to be M10 but I cant even get an M10 nut on the bastards. The thread is much finer than any normal M10 or metric thread I've ever seen.

The only other solution I can think of is to remove the bar, winch, etc, chop the tabs off, and have someone reweld them on the underside of the tube rather than the top which would lower the light body by 25mm or so which might work, but that's a bastard of a job and I haven't got the time to scratch my backside let alone fug around doing all that.

It's been suggested that I get a Defender, if someone wants to swap a Defender then that'd be a great help too.

Before it's asked, yes I cannot believe I physically can't do the simple job of fitting a set of lights, yes I am embarrassed.

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Looking at the shape of those lights, they look identical to Lightforce XGTs, with the lightforce the mounting bracket can be turned around which moves the light forward allowing it to be mounted inside the ARB bar like I have done with mine.

By the way the lightforce EGTs are bigger than your lights as you will see, look at the picture of the dimentions and you'll see the mount, it is possible to turn it backwards moving the light forward for mounting on the ARB bar.

Lightforce - Products

Mine fitted, they don't protrude past the furtherest part of the ARB bar, the rubber bumpers on the bar do.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Check to see if the mounts on those lights do what the XGTs do.

Baz.

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Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

An excellent thief deterring trick is to drill the end of the stud an appropriate size and after installing and aiming your lights, drive a roll pin through the hole of sufficient length to prevent the nut being screwed off.

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After having a set of Rallye 4000s flogged of my work Cruiser there is now a blob of weld at the bottom of each thread.

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Originally Posted by BigJon

After having a set of Rallye 4000s flogged of my work Cruiser there is now a blob of weld at the bottom of each thread.

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You can drive the roll pin out if you want to remove them yourself. A bead of weld metal makes the job near impossible.

I doubt if thieves wander around with an appropriate sized punch and a hammer.

A Hella 1503 was stolen off my County last year, hence this idea. In the case of the Hella, the roll pin goes through the tubular section mount of the light and through the post on the bullbar.I have also pinned the retaining screw of the rim so the guts of the light can't be removed.

[/tanty mode off]

Success. Thanks everyone.:D

I've made two brackets 180x60x3, with three 11mm holes drilled along the length. They bolt onto the ARB tabs and extended the light forward about 25mm giving HEAPS of clearance for good adjustment.

It'd be difficult to undo the nuts to steal the lights because they're hard up against the bar (I bolted them to my brackets first, then the brackets to the bar. There is insufficient clearance to rotate the entire light body.

I put a 1/2" hole in the back of lights and trimmed the plugs down for the HID globe so that all fits properly now too.

Just waiting for the killrust to dry now:cool:

so pictures?

you know incase someone else buys really cool lights for a fugly bar :p :lol2:

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Originally Posted by dullbird

so pictures?

you know incase someone else buys really cool lights for a fugly bar :p :lol2:

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FUGLY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER:cool::cool::cool: