I'm keen to hear about this too Wally. Thanks for puttng this up!
Folks,
I recently replaced my clutch master cylinder and flexible hose, and replaced the seals in the slave cylinder. All was well for a few weeks but now, strangely, it seems fine when the vehicle's cold but when everything's warmed up after a run on the highway I start to run out of clutch pedal (it nearly goes to the floor before the clutch disengages). I've spent a fair bit of time bleeding and adjusting free-play and pedal height. Any ideas?
I'm keen to hear about this too Wally. Thanks for puttng this up!
if its ok when its cold and looses it when its hot its one of 2 things
1. the flex line is failing and bulging when its hot
2. the master cylinder is recirculating when its hot
if its loosing fluid then its a leaky slave (most often)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I am thinking it may be the rod that is between the clutch slave cyclinder and fork which pushes the throwout bearing is worn,
I recently had the same thing (basically could get it to bleed up well then would drive without touching the clutch for 5 minutes or so and then the clutch would hit the floor, you could then slowly pump it back up but was rather painful, If you then left the car turned off for 10 minutes clutch would be ok again. Didn't seem to be losing fluid either so think air may have been getting into the system.)
Turned out to be worn seals in the slave cylinder replace them and haven't had an issue since.
From what i've heard the other common issue is the slave cylinder rod making a hole in the fork it pushes on, Mine has previously had this repaired.
Last edited by josh aka sean; 20th May 2010 at 01:02 PM. Reason: added information
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
It's you slave
The rubbers in you slave went the first time for a reason and they have gone again for the same reason they wnet in the first place. Replace the whole unit and it will solve the problem . Most of the time the whole slave is only a little more than the repair kit anyway. I have always seen it as false econmoy to replace the seals as 9 times out of 10 this is what happens.
95 300 Tdi Defender 90
99 300 Tdi Defender 110
92 Discovery 200tdi
50 Series 1 80
50 Series 1 80
www.reads4x4.com
Wally, I'd tend to agree with this. This link is to just one of the many available on ebay. 300tdi clutch slave cylinder items at low prices on eBay.com.au
Cheers, H
Gday,
Recently went through useless clutch saga, but was a leaking master. Changed out the slave at same time but couldn't get pressure back. Tried another rebuilt master and worked ok, but still didn't save the usual 'feel'.
Anyway, that unit started leaking as well after a few months. So another rebuilt unit fitted and has worked as per normal since.
Rebuilt units were recommended as they have a stainless liner, whereas the new ones are just alloy. The bores wear out due to the off centre forces on the piston.
It's almost enough to make you want an automatic......almost.....
AEW849
2004 DCPU
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