Thread: R380 defender 3rd to 2nd problems, help!

They must want around $2000 labour, do it your self.

Just out of interest what oil have you used in the g/box?

You sound pretty handy with the spanners so you could get the RAVE manual and replace the bits needed.

No expert myself but mine experienced difficulty changing into second and will eventually get a rebuild but changing oil has kept it going.

I have only tackled changing the intermediate shaft o'ring on the transfer case but will graduate to the g/box at some stage.

Hi
I do not know for sure but believe the oil is Penrite in Gearbox.

And The price I was told was not by some one at KLR it was just an aquantance.

I have RAVE and will read the rebuild manual. The problem is probably not the complexity of the task but rather the tools and more importantly the time it may take me to remove / strip / source parts / rebuild / refit.

I generally do not have to drive for work but the 15min drive to work is much better than the 15minute walk and hour 10 minutes each way to work by public transport!

Thanks
james

How far/long since your last oil change in the 'box ?

From what I've experienced, even the full synthetic lubes are shearing badly by 20,000km and the shift performance can be greatly improved by replacing the oil.
If using Penrite 75W-80 whatever it's called, it's only a semi-synth at best, so could be ta ta by 10,000km.

Try changing the oil first before writing off the 'box.

Mine came on as good as ever after Rick suggested using Redline oil. Pat

Is anyone using what Land Rover recomend?. I use Caltex MTF94 (available in 20lt drums) in my 04 Td5 Disco 5 speed R380. After 60000Km 1st to 2nd is still a little tight but over all it is a good gearbox to use. It gets easier when up to operational temperatures. I have changed it out once from brand new at 30000Km and I am about to change it out again at 62000Km. As for the transfer I am thinking about buying a increased volume sump from All four x four here in Newcastle and filling it with a good quality gear oil. More capacity to me means less temperature build up especially since I am buying a 21ft caravan next year. Any thoughts?.
Regards Robbo.

Originally Posted by robbotd5

Is anyone using what Land Rover recomend?. I use Caltex MTF94 (available in 20lt drums) in my 04 Td5 Disco 5 speed R380.
[snip]
Regards Robbo.

AFAIK Caltex aren't importing it anymore.

It's OK, but too light a viscosity in summer in heavy use without an oil cooler IMO (as most Tdi's run)

I will change the oil in the box as per Rick's suggestion, and it is cheaper than the other options.

Which oil shall I go for? More Penrite? Redline? Syntrans?
When I change it is there a need to try to get all of it out of pump etc? Particularly if going to the fully synthetic?

I remember some many years ago there were suggestions of using very light oils or even diesel to wash out gearboxes etc? Or just make sure it is warm / hot.

I think I may check and replace the Transfer case while i am there, same fully synthetic reccommended?

I am increasingly concerned with "wind-up, crabbing" when reversing slowly on pavement. It can be enough to stop the car rolling. It is only noticed when on tight steering not straight. And I can feel it equalise? by a short vibration of transmission bits? but then moves freely. I never really noticed this before but maybe only now as I am looking ( listening) for problems.

I would think that could be central diff? It is not locked I checked

Thinking possibe water in oil may cause these sort of issues in Gbox / Tfercase

Thanks
james