id love to powder my sliders, but it costs heaps, and its not that much better then paint, i just paint my sliders and they look new agen, and its alot cheaper then powder, just better use black paint next time
black on White,should look good,
Looking to install some wing-top protectors in the next few days, and the ones I picked up are the standard silver aluminium. I'd rather them be black, but can't decide whether to paint them or powdercoat them. The advantage of painting is they're easy to touch-up, but powdercoat does look nicer IMHO.
I will also be making sliders and bumperettes later, and will have the same decision with them. I figured it will be best to finish them all the same way.
Any comments/suggestions?
id love to powder my sliders, but it costs heaps, and its not that much better then paint, i just paint my sliders and they look new agen, and its alot cheaper then powder, just better use black paint next time
black on White,should look good,
i would paint the wing tops, black powder coating fades to a not black black, just look at any roo bar in the street, and then look at a black car that is a couple of years old.
as for the sliders, mine are powdercoated, i didn't think it was that expensive [if you compare that to getting something professionally painted], but rocks still scratch the stuff off, so they get a black pressure pack touch up now and then to look better.
As for sliders,i like them hot dipped gal.They sort of get a tarnish,but look OK.No worries about scratches or rust.As for wing covers,dunnowhat is best sorry i can't help.
What i do know is the powder coating on my TJM bashplate that came with the bulbar pealed off after a year.Had it hot dipped & it's been fine ever since.
If it's going to get knocked about. or if it's subject to flexing, then paint, as it's far easier to touch it up, otherwise, powdercoat. I made up some wing protectors some time back, and after spraying them black, got them powdercoated with a batch of other stuff I was doing at the time. The powdercoating gave a far superior and more professional looking finish in my opinion. Don't know about costs where you are, but I hit it pretty lucky with the guy who does my powdercoating - it actually costs me less to get him to powdercoat something, than to etch-prime and paint myself at home![]()
My powder coat guy says that gloss black will deffinately fade, especially in a sunny climate. He recomends satin powder coat as it's much more stable and holds it's colour and shine much better than the gloss. In my opinion, the satin looks better than the gloss anyway.
Also, like painters, there are good powder coaters and bad ones. Preparation is very important, for example, sand blasting.
A very well known brand of rear wheel carriers is having problems with peeling powder coat on some of their products, most likely caused by poor preparation.
Murray
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
TJM have a bad rep for bad powdercoating.
I wish you hadn;t asked this questio Ranga coz now I have to think about it too, given my nice shiny new wheels.
Anyone know whether KIngs wheels are painted of powdercoated... I;d assume the latter ?
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
I had a long talk with with the owner of one of the big powder coaters in Auckland. I learned a lot, such as powder coating can crack when flexed, it can then peel off and water can get trapped under it causing corrosion. Powder coating is not fully impervious to water like paint is, so if you are looking at a place that is subject damage and corrosion then powder coating is not a good choice.
So I'd go with paint, but seeing as how it's aluminium, why not anodise?
Alan
Alan
2005 Disco 2 HSE
1983 Series III Stage 1 V8
Industrial Galvanisers ... Cnr Holt & Curtin, Eagle Farm. It'll set you back about $80. Just make sure any enclosed spaces (end capped tubes etc) have a 10mm breather hole at each end. If you don't then they'll do it anyway and it may not be in your preferred position. Turnaround is about 3 days.
How do I know all this ............. just been there, done that
Definitely the best option for sliders INMHO.
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