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Thread: TD5 Air Induction Pipe Replacement?

  1. #1
    Hamish71 Guest

    TD5 Air Induction Pipe Replacement?

    Hi,

    I am running a VNT turbo, a performance tune, and a snorkel on a TD5 D2A.
    Im thinking of replacing the rubber induction pipe, between the MAF and the turbo, with a length of alloy tube, and a couple of silicone reducer "hump" pipes. Why? Partly because of reports here of that hose collapsing, particularly on "tuned" engines using a snorkel. Partly for "bling".

    The MAF is OD 80mm, the turbo inlet is OD 60mm. I was thinking of a reducer 80mm to 70mm, then OD 70mm pipe with a welded 19mm spigot for the breather, then a reducer from 70 to 60mm right at the turbo inlet. For the pipe, think something like this image, except about 300mm long, with a 19mm spigot.


    The original hose is hard to measure, but it appears it maintains close to 80mm right up until 25-30 mm short of the turbo air inlet.

    1. Am I going to completely screw things up by doing what I propose? Im not proposing using an 80mm alloy pipe because I cannot find an 80 to 60mm silicone reducer.


    2. By welding a spigot onto the pipe, I intend getting rid of the plastic "elbow" that currently fits into the induction pipe for the breather hose. Is that elbow, just an elbow, or does it do anything clever?

  2. #2
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    Stepping it is probably not the best option as you need a smooth transition into the turbo inlet. A stepped intake will create turbulent flow affecting the overall performance.
    You may need to have a custom sheet rolled and welded conically to keep the existing profile.

    The elbow is a diaphragm valve. Don't remove it, modify it to fit back in. It only opens at certain vacuum rates to let crank venting thru.
    Take this out and you will get too much drawing from the crankcase.
    Cheers

    Andrew

  3. #3
    Hamish71 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    The elbow is a diaphragm valve. Don't remove it, modify it to fit back in. It only opens at certain vacuum rates to let crank venting thru.
    Take this out and you will get too much drawing from the crankcase.
    Thanks Andrew, thats logically kind of what I suspected. I had thought of putting a check valve in there, but I wouldnt know the value required.

    As for the turbulence....yes, but it cant be much worse than the inside of that corrogate rubber piece? In trying to find the parts I need, Im thinking it would now be, preferably, getting an exhaust shop to bend me a piece of 76mm (3in tube), which hopefully they can flare to 80mm for the MAF end, and then using a 76mm to 60mm reducer at the turbo end....or, as you suggest, for a little more outlay, I could have a metal reducing element welded on, keeping the surfaces smooth.

  4. #4
    scott oz Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE View Post
    The elbow is a diaphragm valve. Don't remove it, modify it to fit back in. It only opens at certain vacuum rates to let crank venting thru.
    Take this out and you will get too much drawing from the crankcase.
    Cheers

    Andrew
    Confused?

    If I understand correctly we’re talking about the crank case vent pipe which connects to the turbo air intake which provides suction pressure as the air intake flow increases.

    Now I have a 2001 build TD5 defender which I gather will have the same plumbing in this regard.

    If the angle pipe into the air intake has a valve which only operates when sufficient vacuum is supplied by the air intake how is pressure relieved when there isn’t sufficient pressure to operate the valve?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott oz View Post
    Confused?

    If I understand correctly we’re talking about the crank case vent pipe which connects to the turbo air intake which provides suction pressure as the air intake flow increases.

    Now I have a 2001 build TD5 defender which I gather will have the same plumbing in this regard.

    If the angle pipe into the air intake has a valve which only operates when sufficient vacuum is supplied by the air intake how is pressure relieved when there isn’t sufficient pressure to operate the valve?
    Should probably correct myself a tad. Its not vacuum that opens it, its the crank pressure. But vacuum plays a part in not allowing it to open excessively. Its more like a differential release valve.
    There is a spring that keeps the diaphragm seated, opening under crank pressure. Vacuum at low speed is not enough to suck it closed so it will vent as much as the spring load on the diaphragm will allow according to its rating.
    Once engine speed increases, so does crank venting volume however the increasing vacuum from the turbo intake reduces the rate of diaphragm lift regulating the crank venting amount.

    If you take it off, you can blow through it at the inlet but you cant suck through it on the outlet.

    From what i could see in mine last time I looked at it, it also has a small hole at the bottom between the two chambers allowing it to drain oil to the outlet. I had my tube off to patch the tear in the spigot for the valve only to find the inside of the convolutions filled with oil and a trickle from it running into the turbo! Explains why the intercooler outlet hose is wet.
    Also noted that its wetter since bypassing the EGR.

    I am looking at other types of catch cans rather than just the ProVent. I do think its a very good product, but its size and material means sacrificing dual battery space and an aluminium one could be made to tolerate exhaust manifold heat and mount closer to rocker cover outlet.
    I have a couple of things in mind but no equipment or experience to make one or two and try them.

    Cheers

    Andrew

  6. #6
    scott oz Guest
    Lovemyrange,

    Keep us all posed on the catch can. I've got the provent and size is and issue. Having said that at present I'm just venting mine straight out.

    "Seems" to have made a difference but most likely the placebo effect. Having had the radiator intercooler and inlet manifold all cleaned I feel better knowing that as far as possible only clean cold air is going in.

  7. #7
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    Will do. Just need someone to take sketches to product.

    I have a few ideas, all designed to be removable and cleanable and without the need for tapping into the turbo oil return hose.

    I have a mate who is a boilermaker, just need to make time to sit down and start working on it.

    Cheers

    Andrew

  8. #8
    RoverNova Guest
    Been about 2 years but did anything ever come of this topic? About to make a intake out of silicone and alloy with a catch tank between the rocker cover and intake pipe.

    Interested to know if its been down before.

    Cheers
    Rhys

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