Printable View
well, it's reassembled and the noise is still there, after less than a 1min of running the filter again has no oil in it.
The pump seems to work, as there's vaseline coming out the port under the filter, when I remove the filter.
The new oil pressure switch isn't working, so I'll need to check for a blown globe at the dash.
Try another filter, as the non return valve should stop any drainback. I still cannot understand how it can be any MORE empty than when you fit it , as you spill any excess over the amount allowed by the angle as you fit it. What brand and number filter is it? Ryco Z89A is the correct one with an anti drainback valve.
Now you have eliminated the oil pump drive, dirty screen, dropped main cap, and maybe a gone big end( maybe that is what was in the sump), I think it gets you back to the pressure relief valve.
Get the oil pressure light working as it will tell you if you have no oil pressure, which is most likely. That I believe is the first thing to do. If you cannot be bothered to fix the bulb in the instrument panel, just rig up a bulb from the battery to the oil pressure light switch.
Regards Philip A
Thanks Phil.
I used a Z9 with a non return valve originally, and 2nd time around a Z-89 (again with the valve).
I'll try the lamp shortly, I'm currently in the house babysitting.
Does anyone think I should remove the plunger from the pressure relief valve on the side of the pump? I can't see how that would help, but just asking.
I don't. My recollection is that high pressure pushes the plunger back against the spring which then opens the bypass.
So you would be opening the bypass all the time hence no oil pressure.
The problem with stuck relief valves is that they push back against the spring then do not move forward again as the pressure drops as the oil heats and thins.
Regards Philip A
Just on the empty oil filter bit. Hopefully no egg sucking advice but you do realize that there are two chambers in an oil filter and the outer chamber feeds into the centre and if you fill with oil it will quickly equalize to the outer. When you remove it there will still be oil between the filter and the housing ( the outer chamber) but maybe none in the centre. The anti drainback valve keeps it in the outer area but it will slowly make its way back to the centre.
Okay, there's no oil pressure at all, which isolates the problem to either the pump or the pick up.
I idled the car and slowly unscrewed the filter, to see if I would get any spurts of oil, but nothing came.
options are to remove the dizzy and spin up the pump with a drill
remove the sump again and double check the pick up in case it has an air leak.
Nice high KMs, is that 460k on a factory motor? I thought the RV8 was only good for 300k!
Penrite oil huh? What grade/ variety?
I used Penrite HPR Gas. When I pulled the sump off I could still see hone marks on the bores and there's been no slop in the dizzy and oil pump drives when I've removed them.Quote:
Originally Posted by CSK
G`day ,Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael2
i`d remove the distributor and check the pin on the pump drive hasn`t sheered . If it has it may grab and not and the reason you see a flow of jelly . The pin on the gear must be ok or it wouldn`t run .
Looked at one in the shed and there is no obvious wear on the gear pin but very obvious wear on the pump drive pin .
Then if not found as you say make a fitting to use a drill to drive the pump . Will need to fill with jelly again for prime though .
Also if you don`t , put some oil in the filter before fitting just to help , in a system that`s workin ok it makes little difference unless left with filter off for awhile .
If you need to remove the sump again check where the pickup bolts to the block and its gasket . I`d take it off and check it for cracks etc for elimination .
I don`t remember if you model has the fitting between the filter and the block for the cooler , if it does i`d check that for piece of mind also .
Cheers
Peter
Thanks Peter,
I'll remove the dizzy and check the pin in the drive gear. I'm thinking it might turn okay with no load (as seen from under the car with the pump bottom off) due to friction, but then stall under load with a broken pin.
I'm not sure how to access it yet, but will explore the manual. I hope I don't have to pull the sump off again.
I pulled the dizzy out.
The drive cog and split pins are all okay.
I spun the pump with a drill (made an adaptor) and removed the oil filter to see if anything was being pumped - nothing.
I reversed the drill direction in case I had it wrong, still nothing.
Not sure whether I should pull the pump apart again, or remove the sump.