Red VS Green Coolant again!!!

I have been using the green in my Zook. I filled it at the spec' and it leaked every where. Now its just mostly water and not leaking.
The Disco when I bought it was filled with green and had the top hose balloon. When I replaced it some fittings had white corrosion. Since chaging to OAT (red) its all good.
Id use it in the Zook, but Oat is not good with copper.
When changing from green to red, make sure its all flushed out. As the two dont mix. They form a sludge.
One other thing, I wouldnt belieave these work shops that change the coolant. They use what every they have.
People lie.

I have always just used green coolant from supercheap, cant remember the name. So you think red is better?

its full of plain water at th emoment while i check for leaks.

Andy, there is an anti corrosion part in the OAT,,
apart from that,, :spudnikwhat:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PAT303

No offence mate but how many times have you read that you should never fill your rad with tap water?.It doesn't matter that it's pH neutral,it's the suspended minerals that choke up the system. Pat

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Thanks Pat ... actually, I don't think I ever had, until your post. :eek:

Valid point about suspended solids/minerals in solution. They do only come out of solution & form solids by chemical reaction though ... and you need the right chemical reaction to make this happen. Maybe I've just been dam lucky for the last 30yrs ?

Time for some more research!

Thanks for the tip!

Kev..

Andy-I suppose the water pump is good insurance. I remember though some years ago having a gander at the one in my d1 v8 and the impeller was stainless and perfect at 165000 k. Housing was in very good condition too. Cheers

FWIW The OAT coolant is especially effective in all-alloy engines. that's why it was developed. I personally wouldn't use it in engines with ally heads and iron blocks or engines with iron blocks and heads. Different chemistry re. galvanic action. For them I'd use the green ethylene glycol -based formulation.

Don't know much about CAT engines...are they iron or alloy?

For the past 10 years i've used the GMH OAT red stuff recommended for the LS1 engine in my V8 Commodore. 5yrs replacement 50/50 mix. Not a sceric of scale anywhere in 130,000km.

When I bought the P38 a few yrs ago I drained the coolant put in the GMH stuff as well...134,000km now and clean as a whistle. All done always with either distilled or demineralised water.

The Honda Jazz example earlier is getting to be par for the course... I'd expect a thermally stable OAT formulation to last 10 yrs in a properly serviced alloy engine...

Why not use genuine, it costs no more and if things go wrong you have a legal comeback, colour means nothing nor does a radiator salesman selling his own brand of coolant, a green oval does.

Cheers

Rushy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rushy

Why not use genuine, it costs no more and if things go wrong you have a legal comeback, colour means nothing nor does a radiator salesman selling his own brand of coolant, a green oval does.

Cheers

Rushy

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good luck with making a legal claim when your vehicle is out of factory warranty (as most on this site would be)... I would also take my advice on the best coolant from a non-dealer LR service agent rather than from a LR dealer...

did not no you could get Land Rover OEM coolant never seen it before never heard of it even tho i did part of my appretiship at land rover ;)

I just changed the coolant on my Ford Territory (4 years 125,000Km) and I looked at OAT vs glycol coolants.
I found the colour of the coolant isn't relevant because manufacturers dye both types different colours. If you're not sure what has been used previously then change it to a known type. I found one supplier that offers a coolant that apparently gives the advantages of both OAT & Glycol (?)and it can be supplied in 2 different colours ! That could confuse the next owner of the vehicle.
Another issue seems to be that if you do not dilute at the recommended rate the anti corrosion additives are not at the correct percentage so corrosion protection may be compromised. I found that with some large engines an additive pack is used on the first fill to get the anti-corrosion side of things working quickly.
You must change coolant at the suggested interval otherwise corrosion protection is reduced. Mixing different types of coolant will also compromise the service life of the coolant

I guess everyone has their own preferences eg. I do not personally buy the 'ready to use' stuff because I object to paying an inflated price for water. But, I do only use either distilled or tank water rather than tap water.
My Defender & Series 1 use glycol and the Territory now has Nulon Red OAT.

There's loads of stuff out there on the net but a lot is biased towards one or the other.
http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...27/article.pdf

I guess whatever you choose then mix it as directed, change it at the correct interval and things should be OK as long as the product is from a reputable supplier......


Colin