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I have measured quite a few thor engines both D2 and RR that are 100+ at idle, measured at the inlet manifold coolant passageway with an infra red thermometer. It is quite possible that the temp at the temp sender, IE what is displayed on scanguage, is less due to its position in the system.
JC
Thanks Gents...its getting worse because today it was hitting 105 at idle on a very nice day with only a tiny bit of stop start after a very mild run...and because it was then ripping down to 85 and back to 95 and then 105 and back again I reckon its a sticking thermostat. I am going to sort it this week - radiator flush, genuine thermostat, new hoses and checking the clutch fan which should be ok cause I can hear it but we will see.
Cheers
Thanks again fellas. Ok radiator and block flush with no blockages and some white granulated bits coming out (this is an OAT block from new) and new thermostat and hoses (the old ones 167,000 odd are beautiful...and are sitting as spares in the rear, but used all genuine so unlikely to ever be needed)...and now she is 88-90 driving along, 90-93 stop start traffic and then if I cane it hard and then let it sit (ie trying to force it up) she gets to 95 and then quickly drops back to 92 or so...nice.
Cheers
PS. Sticky thermostat was the problem I reckon but having another flush certainly cant hurt when some stuff came out - not a lot but enough.
Its good to hear the new clutch fan kicking in when it should now...dont notice its gone when it goes to lunch slowly.
The temps are still good in this hot weather, but after stop start traffic and then going into an underground car park it can rise to 102. I am going to tow the boat with it soon (2tonns) in stop start and see how it goes. My bet is that it will go to 102-103 say and not go higher in stop start heavy hot towing.
Having said that when I first got the scanguage II about 4 years ago I towed the same load on a 39 degree Brisbane Summer day up and down Paddington steep hills bypassing bad traffic and was amazed that I couldnt get it above 99...so I think the radiator might be not 100% - which at 169,000 even with a recent flush (no rodding) and always new OAT at 10k intervals wouldnt surprise me. Im going to Fraser soon and dont want dramas, but I suppose as long as she is content in the deep sand at maxing at say 102-103 I shouldnt be worried about a new Rad just yet. When I did deep sand towing 1.5 tonn last year at Straddie the temp did not exceed 105 with old thermostat and buggered clutch fan..
What do you reckon?
Cheers
Bump...keen to hear what people reckon on this and what their highest temps are with good systems in their V8's
Cheers
David Hardcastle maintains that for reliability a Rover V8 shouldn't exceed 80 Degrees C even under racing conditions
Doubt if hes been to Australia though, I live in the Pilbara and based on his reasoning I have tried to keep my temp as low as possible.
I don't have a water temp gauge apart from the standard one but have a temperature monitor on the head that seems to stay between 74 and 88 degrees in even in the most horrible conditions.
Sometimes the heat soak will take it over but not that often
Ok today in heavy traffic - very mild day - spiked to 105 and then as soon as I accelerated the fan pulled it back down to 100 and then 98, 95 and back to 90 within a minute of a free run....so I suspect new rad might be the go...anyone know the best place to get one...should I go genuine and if so BMI or similar?
Cheers
Spiked to 208 for literally 2 seconds the other day...new radiator going in this week. I am going to install a TEFBA filter. Used the same one in several holdens over 8 years many years ago and they are fantastic durable bits of kit. Anyone know 1. the top radiator hose size in inches and 2. where to get one in Brisbane? Cheers
I see the maker sells them on ebay
Scott
When was the last time you cleared all the fins on the A/C condenser and Trans cooler?
Also look at your electric fans, are they cutting in (turn your A/C on and look)...