That suck as while you can get individual bolts from ARP the main importer doesn't want to deal with "small stuff".
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That suck as while you can get individual bolts from ARP the main importer doesn't want to deal with "small stuff".
The biggest plus for studs is the block metal is compressed between the stud thread and taper giving higher yield strength.Studs can ''grow'' into the block,VW's are notorious for it and you can't pull the heads if still in the vehicle but fitting studs may actually make it less likely that you have too. Pat
Why aren't you using Loctite nickel anti-seize?Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
They aren't coated from new so 15-20 years later when the engines were rebuilt we had the problem,VW actually have a factory supplied extractor kit but all it does is chew the threads out worse,we used to cut the bolts off flush then send them out to be milled out or spark eroded them. Pat
You cant change to studded bottom end without first "Close and Honing" the Crank tunnel and resetting the registers . (obviously this .the honing ,is done with the main caps inplace and final torqued ) The new studs will distort the mains immediately .
Any half decent engine rebuild would always "Close and Hone " the mains and reset the registers , also no real need to stud the crossbolts .While your at it make sure the block is "Torque plate honed " and then dreaded block cracking which looks like Liner movement wont happen (as much , after all a bad block is a bad block LOL)
Did you ever try a ball nose slot drill with reverse helix? You need a vertical mill or a universal with a vertical head and enough space between the table and the cutter to mount the block with the head gasket face horizontal. I did this type of job regularly on my big Stankoexport mill. The thrust of the cutting action will commonly unwind the stub of the sawn off stud from the block. A big radial drill will do the job but most drill presses are not sufficiently rigid and their bearings are not designed for lateral thrust.Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
Pedro,
Just for interest, TRS insist on studs instead of head bolts on their rebuilt Rover V8 engines.
Actually,in relation to my last post. I'll give my disco to the first person who can fit a studded crossbolted main cap, think about it.
The ARP stud kit is $180 from TRS,,
are they the only supplier?
Rocket Industries and Fabre in Sydney are the 2 distributors I know of. But if you don't have a chev or ford don't go to Rocket.