Studs instead of Head bolts?

OK,, studs are the go!

now, ARP say studs are only finger tight and you can use loctite or their gloop,,

any preference?

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

The ARP stud kit is $180 from TRS,,

are they the only supplier?

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I rang rimmers in the Uk the other week and they said $108au for the main kit and /i think it was around 230au for the head stud kit, not sure what freight is but it may work out slightly cheaper.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

OK,, studs are the go!

now, ARP say studs are only finger tight and you can use loctite or their gloop,,

any preference?

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I'll give you my procedure for fitting head studs, 1st. run a thread tap in the head bolt holes and clean out thoroughly, 2nd. use lightly some moly lube and screw studs in until they stop, don't tighten any further, or you can use Loctite delayed action goop, fit head and tighten to (ARP) specs, much better clamping force than bolts. If you're worried about studs siezing in the head bollt holes coat the shanks with the appropriate Never-Sieze, I have scanned the relevant Tech. pages from the ARP Catalogue and Tech Guide if you wish I could email the relevant page, Regards Frank.

I don't recall ARP approving loctite, but anyway. I only use ARP lube or moly lube. ARP don't aprove anti seize lubes, I've always just screwed in by hand then put in an allen key and tapped with a single finger.

Don't forget the pre stretching procedure for the studs. Do it with a sacrificial dasket (used on both sides).

Id say forget the "pre-stretch" procedure . you wont have the time or tools to do it . Its a ****, thats why you buy the ARP studs for in the first place ! Pay more attention to the actual head gasket , is it a compound,or single or MLS , does it require some sort of goo (wet or dry ?) Is it monotorque or re-torque type ? Make sure your Tension wrench is accurate , use the right lube on the nuts and hardened washers .

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

I don't recall ARP approving loctite, but anyway. I only use ARP lube or moly lube. ARP don't aprove anti seize lubes, I've always just screwed in by hand then put in an allen key and tapped with a single finger.

Don't forget the pre stretching procedure for the studs. Do it with a sacrificial dasket (used on both sides).

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Loctite compounds are formulated to work the same as a coating of light oil. Check their literature. I would use nickel anti-seize on both threads on a stud unless one is open to coolant where you must use a sealant.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

I don't recall ARP approving loctite, but anyway. I only use ARP lube or moly lube. ARP don't aprove anti seize lubes, I've always just screwed in by hand then put in an allen key and tapped with a single finger.

Don't forget the pre stretching procedure for the studs. Do it with a sacrificial dasket (used on both sides).

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If you read what I said in my post "worried about studs siezing in the head bollt holes coat the shanks with the appropriate Never-Sieze," use it on the shanks to stop corrosion from the stud to the inside of the stud hole in the head, Regards Frank.