Tdi300 sump/sieve

**rrturboD** · 1st January 2011, 09:37 PM

Like the title says, I have been investigating the large calling cards my engine leaves whenever I stop. Thought the leak was from back of engine, or crankcase seal, but found that that the oil collects on the flywheel cover while you drive, and drips off when you stop.

I have used the last few days to thoroughly clean engine, sump, gearbox, mounts etc so you could see any fresh oil.
Removed fan, so as not to disturb the oil that had leaked.
10 minutes running, 3 clear rapid drips from sump/block joint. All bolts seem tight.
I am assuming that when the sump was last removed, gooped and refitted, no doubt in a hurry, there was oil on the block surface, and thus the silicon failed to stick to the block surface.

Question to all with vast LR experience:
Is there a 'magic' silicon material that I can use that will stick to the metals (cleaned first with acetone?) and seal the sump? I do not mind if it will be hard to remove the sump in the future, just have to get rid of the leaks at the joint!

**rrturboD** · 3rd January 2011, 04:23 PM

Well took the plunge today and removed the sump.... removed, well it almost fell off when I gave it a nudge, having undone all the bolts. The bolts were done up VERY tight, and at bolt points the sump was pressed against the block.
The silicon material came off very easily from the sump, and left almost none on the block.
I've washed everything and wiped block dry, as it has been sitting unstarted for 3 days so most oil should have collected in the sump.
I'll go for the Wurths Silicone Special 250 (or Super RTV-Silicone, as I have some) after I have spoken with local Wurth man in the morning.
So let you know if it seals this time!

**101RRS** · 3rd January 2011, 06:07 PM

Hi Michael,

I had a oil leak from an engine gasket on my old subaru and I really did not want to pull the engine out and pull apart to fix. Someone recommended to me a Toyota Silicon sealant that was suitable for use where it might not be possible to fully clean all the oil.

I bought a tube (Fyshwick Toyota had it in stock) - expensive stuff. It is a white silicon and I cleaned the area as best I could and encased the leaking area in the stuff. It formed a skin over the leaking area and bonded very well to the clean area. It did stop the leak.

I subsequently used it on the sump gasket on my jag when I put a new one in and it worked really well - though I did change from a cork style gasket to a composite metal one so could tighten the bolts up much tighter. Non metallic gaskets have to be torqued up just right - not too much, not too little - too tight and they squish out and leak.

The Toyota stuff works well.

Garry

Garry

**langy** · 3rd January 2011, 06:34 PM

Just so you don't get too frustrated if the leak continues - t-seals. Easy to do. ( My fav silicon is Dow Corning 732 in black )

**rrturboD** · 8th January 2011, 09:12 AM

Advice for impending sump sealers...
CLEAN both surfaces
I used some carby cleaner on block and sump
Manual says 2mm bead, so not much goop. I applied a wipe to the block, and another wipe (maybe a little more like the 2mm bead) and smoothed it out with knife before assembling, finger tight only.
Left overnight, tightened, very little squeezed out, so hope none on inside either. Left for the rest of the day before adding oil, and running motor.
DRY
now to replace transfer case/transmission seal

After discussion with Wurths man, stuck with the Super RTV Silicon.

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