Thread: turbo diesel knowledge base

Why not change your experiment to see how much extra boost you can put into your 300Tdi before it lets go? Increase the fuel only to try and keep the EGT constant as you increase boost. I am sure that there will be limits to how much extra boost you can generate from a single stock turbo however I think it would be a more meaningful/valuable experiment for the internet community.

option two considered...

boost being a function of fuel. What is you suggestion to increase boost pressure?
From memory of informative posts by people who know more than I a stock 300 hair dryer starts to lose efficiency above 18psi.

S

Only suggestion would be to alter the boost that the waste gate opens up at. That will not increase the ability of the hairdrier but will allow you to use all the boost that it can generate.

The 1HZ is only tough as nails if it remains bog standard and does no altitude work. They simply don't have the power to hurt themselves.
Turbocharge them and you start rolling the dice.

The toyota 4 cyl di engines are solid (13B, 14B, 15B etc) as are the 6 cylinder 24 valve (1HD-FT) engines. Otherwise they don't have anything to lust after.

The 10psi level really pushes the 1HZ over the edge of reliability with stock internals. Any high end EGT's will ruin them very fast, consequently they are not a powerhouse when turboed if you want them to last. I am not very familiar with the 1HD-FT but by all accounts as tough as the 12HT. Typically Toyota build good factory turbo engines, VERY good, but they build their atmo engines to last as an ATMO engine, and why not?

Overall, they are good engines but I have reservations about the L series engines for reliability, 5000km oil changes or you WILL run a very high risk of big end failure and piston contact to head etc etc. This is unacceptable in a country where 5K can be up in a week easily while touring. Gets expensive after a while....I leave my oil changes while travelling to 12 or 13K, usually just about when I am back at home

The article in the link is infused with all sorts of carry-on, one of the reasons I don't go there

In answer to your Q, I have done something similar, and after 19psi and 800degree upstream temps, constantly, the head started to show signs of 'distortion' where the combustion flame shape became very obvious, the blowby became chronic as the afterburn glazed the cylinder walls, and the turbo became very noisy as what I expect is excessive restriction/ turbulence through the stock intercooler etc as it got to its design limits.

I have no doubt these 300Tdi's are a tough little motor, this took almost 8 months of 'research thrashing' to get to this point, in a 130DC. Oh, and the smoke? similar to a wound up hilux or patrol with the fuel screw all the way...

Try THAT in you 3L 2.8 hilux. Maybe a day of those temps and boost levels and curtains for you, atmo engine...

JC

Originally Posted by roverrescue

So if you have a spare few minutes read this thread

Overlander 4WD :: View topic - It's here..It's here......part 2..fitting..

Of course amongst the OL diatribe there is the funny quote "he is running too much boost making too much heat burning pistons" which makes me chuckle a little ( in a technical kinda way!)... also seems the pre turbo EGT values quoted are a little low compared with those quoted on AULRO as "safe"?

BUT my point for this mostly inane red wine induced post is why does a 1HZ tough as nails never bloody die 6 pot diesel only "like" sub 10psi boost pressure but ****ly alloy headed tdi and td5 donks eat up to 20psi and zuzus up to what is it 60psi???


regards,
Steve

Isnt this how everyone posts?

Thanks Dougal and JC...

So JC it seems my research has already been done!!!!

My current engine has enough blowby from being dusted that it probably cant hold 18psi!!!!

Id imagine at 18psi and 800degrees the ol 300 would get along okay?

S

800 is too hot for those who like their engines. 750 is the usually max and cooler again for sustained use.
650-700 is pretty safe.