Salisbury diff question ?

Well on checking the axles yes they are in crap condition also someone has welded the flanges to the axles :( so that could also mean there stuffed on the inner spline also :( aframe is probably gunna be my next call because come to think of it the diff was in good order whilst I had the rear end out.... Defender tail shafts should bolt straight up yes ? Td5 ones look alot better :)

Chief, the sals is pretty tough, IF the pinion is the cause of excessive backlash then it will be howling its head off and possibly leaking oil at the flange seal too. I would be pretty confident that you would be looking at something else causing it, axles, flanges, ball joint, unis etc. One other thing, if left for a long time like this, the selector sleeve and dogs on high range gear will wear, meaning there will always be a certain amount of backlash even after new axles and ball joint etc are fitted.

JC

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Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

Well on checking the axles yes they are in crap condition also someone has welded the flanges to the axles :( so that could also mean there stuffed on the inner spline also :( aframe is probably gunna be my next call because come to think of it the diff was in good order whilst I had the rear end out.... Defender tail shafts should bolt straight up yes ? Td5 ones look alot better :)

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Mick has got my spare Sals up at his place, give him a shout and see if the axles and/ or flanges are still in place, your welcome to them to get you out of shyte short term, but I'll want them returned or replaced eventually.

Also look at the poxy little UJ's on the Defer shaft in comparison to your county.

Thanks dobbo muchliy appreciated.. I took the rear sals out the county to put a deefer one in so I have discs but found that the new axles hav been welded so goto use the county ones and funnily enough dad has flogged the county axles to replace the "welded" ones in his defender :(
Why is there so many bloody welded axles out there ? Is it just lazyness ? (little have they relised the 2 metals dont like welding together)

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Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

Thanks dobbo muchliy appreciated.. I took the rear sals out the county to put a deefer one in so I have discs but found that the new axles hav been welded so goto use the county ones and funnily enough dad has flogged the county axles to replace the "welded" ones in his defender :(
Why is there so many bloody welded axles out there ? Is it just lazyness ? (little have they relised the 2 metals dont like welding together)

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I've had to weld them in the past, pre heating and lots of amps make sure they stay as one:cool:

Agreed it isn't the right way, but better than not getting home etc.

JC

Mmmm touche:BigThumb:

Where,what and how much for upgraded rear axles ?

Hi-tough engineering, MR automotive are agents. You'll need a set '1724/1725X' which consists of long and short axles and extended length flanges.
This also necessitates the oil in hub lube conversion, to avoid the same thing happening to the enw axles. Search in the good oil for oil lube hubs.
JC

On high millage vehicles like mine the intermediate shaft in the transfer wears in the casing which also causes slop. Pat

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Originally Posted by rovercare

Backlash is adjusted via shims under the pinion head and shims beside the carrier bearings...more than likely axle slop, a-frame balljoint

check backlash by rotating the pinion, should be a faint clunk, which is pinion to crownwheel backlash, then the following 3453turns and imoveable clunk is the rest:D

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Crown wheel and pinion backlash will not cause a clunk. Most diffs have around 6 to 10 thou of an inch backlash. If you had enough to cause a clunk it would be that stuffed that it would be screaming its titts off.

If there is play in the diff causing a clunk it will be the spider gears or the axle splines in the spiders or both.

Dave.