Thread: HELP Removal V8 Starter Motor

Originally Posted by pibby

Trying to think outside the square – can the part of the housing which is bolted to the motor be left where it is and the remainder/back part with innards be pulled off in situ then if you have a working one take its innards out and put them into the one on the car? There’s not much room there. Even taking the back of the housing off might give you more access to get to the two bolts to remove the starter so you can drop another one in.

Obviously an auto otherwise you’d push start it. I have heard of people tow starting autos but someone with a bit of knowledge of this may chime in with how to do it and if it damages the auto????

And you have tried shorting across the starter and solenoid? My car has a voltage drop at the solenoid so it reads say 11.0v so I ran a wire from the battery via a switch in the cabin which gets me started every time. In your case shorting across from the started will do or if not physically possible run a wire from the solenoid to your battery +ve and contact it to see if it turns. ( hope I’m not telling you how to suck eggs) it’s assumed your starter is completely cactus but maybe it’s not?????

Maybe a mobile mechanic might have a trick to get it off or someone with stronger arms? (said in all seriousness)

Hope you get it sorted.

Hi Pibby, RACQ tried shorting the starter to get me going and no go. I believe that if you try pull starting the car then you damage the auto. As for taking the innards out of the old starter, wont work because of a circlip on the pinion/ cog which is inside the front housing. All that could be achieved is the removal of the outer cover, I think. Stronger arms ???? I wish. Thanks for the suggestions. Bob

Originally Posted by Grumbles

What about spraying it with that freezing product in a spray can made by Wurth. Causes the metal to shrink and may provide that loss of grip needed to undo the bolts.

Will try spraying some LPG on the bolthead tomorrow. Bob

Originally Posted by bee utey

The allen key should be 5/16 inch. An 8mm key should be tighter. If you can get a 10mm pin punch on the bolt swing a lump hammer against the punch towards the rear, and sideways to loosen the *****. Sometimes distorting the bolt head slightly will loosen it.

Thanks bee utey, will try your suggestions tomorrow. If all fails then Ill try my own suggestion of useing an angle grinder, except that I dont think it will fit Bob

heat the starter boss up with a hot air gun then give the bolts a good spray with freezen release

use a long drift pin and a hammer to drive the shoulder of the bolt around while a friend leans on the allen key in the direction of undo.

you May need to remove the header and the wing first.

short of that.

die grinder the head of the bolt off, extract the starter then abuse the "studs" out.'

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

heat the starter boss up with a hot air gun then give the bolts a good spray with freezen release

use a long drift pin and a hammer to drive the shoulder of the bolt around while a friend leans on the allen key in the direction of undo.

you May need to remove the header and the wing first.

short of that.

die grinder the head of the bolt off, extract the starter then abuse the "studs" out.'

Thanks Blacknight, never thought of heating up the boss. The daughters hair drier will get a decent workout then. Remove the header and wing first....NO WAY. I already get stirred enough for having a L/R when the rest of the street has Toyissans. Die Grinder...LIKE that idea. The top bolt has me worried as there is a lot less room to work in. Bob

a hair drier is not likely to cut it... you will most likely need a 1800 or 2400w hot air gun or even beter a butane torch or to quote JC the red and black adjustable spanner.

G`day ,

if you have a 2lb hammer or mash hammer with any weight and if you don`t have anything else use a half inch extension bar of the right length .

You can see the top one from above not easy but its there , you can see the bottom from below , both cases move yourself around till you can sight them .

Use the bar as a drift and belt the allen head square on hard a few times then use a lighter hammer and hit it sharply . Hard is using the weight for solid impact and sharply is springing for light impact . Make sure the heads are hit square so`s not to damage and make sure it`s the head . Then clean out the head of the key to be sure the allen tool sits home . If the head is distorted use you impact screwdriver bit backwards to reshape the inside of the allen bolt head .

Fit your new tool with a hammer to be sure it`s home , apply as much pressure as you can but it must all be square .

I have a allen socket and extension that is 3/8 drive but sometimes for the top one i use a 1/2 inch adapter because the 1/2 drive bar stays squarer because it can rest down the starter . I have also jacked the right hand front high off the ground , while using safety stands so`s to get more purchase , this way feet can be used on chassis ETC .

cheers

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

a hair drier is not likely to cut it... you will most likely need a 1800 or 2400w hot air gun or even beter a butane torch or to quote JC the red and black adjustable spanner.

Thanks, do you have a red and black adjustable spanner you could lend me???????? OK, Ill forget the hair dryer. Thanks. Bob