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Hi i used redline water wetter in my 6.5 chev diesel fully flushed with distilled water made no difference in my opinion $40 a bottle when u need two of them just came across as snake oil to me.
better of using tectaloy gold cheaper and at the end of the day coolant actualy lowers the boiling point of water anyway so it doesnt really mater it wouldnt be fluid causing your over heating problem at the end of the day its just fluid.
OK, real life experience.
I took my 92RRC radiator to a NATRAD shop today to be rodded, since it is 11 years old (NATRAD 940 core fitted under warranty when I bought the car) . No overheating at all but seeing I have the whole thing apart I would rather be sure.
I have used Nulon Longlife Green and distilled water changed every 2 years. There was NO blockage in the radiator and NO corrosion in the steel pipes to the heater and NO corrosion in the timing case.
The radiator guy said the core was extremely clean.
I reckon that this speaks for itself on what is a good coolant .
Regards Philip A
Bloody amazing,correct cooling system servicing does work.Who would have thunk it. Pat
Umm, think you'll find it raises the boiling point......Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelbuilding1984
The main point of Water Wetter is to increase the surface tension of the water in the galleries when it's at temperature. This stops the formation of air bubbles on the gallery walls and also reduces cavitation particularly in the water pump and at the thermostat outlet and basically anywhere there is the possibility of differential pressure forming including block to head water galleries.
If you dont need antifreeze properties in a lot of cases WW on it's own will be adequate. The heat transfer capacity is exceptionally good however your only really looking at a couple of degrees benefit over pure distiller water, but over even a good glycol it will be quite a bit better.
However in an aluminum block, I wouldn't use it on it's own mainly for the anti corrosion needs.
Diesel variants of WW have high anti cav properties to protect against ignition cavitation around the top of the bore area which is more prevalent in wet liner engines than parent bores engines.
Toyota coolant, excellent stuff but handmixed concoction I would be dubious about as the premixed is the best you will get and as previously mentioned, over rich mix will actually cause overheating as it can't release the heat quick enough.
I would use a high quality coolant and for a V8 just like Philip, I recommend the Nulon Xtracool non glycol concentrate with a bottle of Water Wetter but if you have other problems it ain't gonna fix it.
I would drop the coolant in it, fill with normal water and add a flushing agent.
Drain it by removing both block plugs, stick a hose in the heater pipe filler and flush the ass out of it (this will also flush the heater core) then put everything back together, add a bottle of the Nulon concentrate and fill with water and bleed it accordingly.
If you still have hot running then it's something else ala water pump or even running too lean.
Cheers
Andrew
Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.
Okay so apart from phillipA recommending Nulon long life the, Tectaloy Xtra Cool Gold and Nulon Ultra Cool are essentially heavy duty corrosion inhibitors (no anti-freeze). Tectaloy even states theirs can be mixed with tap water!! (I'll only be using distilled water...)
Tectaloy Xtra Cool GOLD
Ultra Cool - Nulon Products Australia
The Redline Waterwetter is a WW and corrosion inhibitor but I take it from the pushing of the Tectaloy and Nulon that its corrosion inhibiting ability is pretty average??
Redine state:
Quote:
RUST & CORROSION PROTECTION
• WaterWetter passes the ASTM D2570 Simulated Service Corrosion Test -the most severe test developed
for automotive coolants determined by the ASTM committee to be requirements for adequate cooling
system protection.
• WaterWetter reduces rust, corrosion and electrolysis of all metals in plain water. Also prevents cavitation
corrosion.
I wouldn't rely on water wetter as a corrosion inhibitor, especially when you consider the issues that occur in our engines. I use it and have seen a 2-3 degree decrease since. Added it to the std coolant mix.
I run extra cool gold in my Tdi and it has seen 48 degree's without overheating.But,and it's a big but I flush and change it's cooling system every year without fail. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by stuee
Hi,
Just read all the posts with great interest, I’m currently in the same sort of position.
Recently, rebuilt the engine 3.9 EFI Discovery, new cam, lifters, timing gear etc, plus new OEM composite head gaskets with ARP studs to give a better seal.
At the same time I added a non standard condenser to cope with the summer hear, more fins per inch, as my OEM was shot. Fitted a low fin height radiator, 8 months ago.
Started the lump up, fired on the first turn no issues, ran at 2,000 rpm for 20 mins to bed the cam in, etc, so far I’ve done 2,000ks, with oil an oil change at 1,000k’s no oil in the water, no water in the oil, using VR1 20 / 50 W racing oil.
Had a right PITA with air in the system, found a leak on a hose clip near the plenum chamber fixed and sealed, refilled and bleed, still before the stat opens I hear a little noise, gurgling around the heater matrix.
Fitted a new expansion cap, and while I was at it, fitted a new OEM waxstat, the old stat only had the hole at the top, where as the new one had the little jiggle pin, of which I left.
The coolant I’m using is Cummins Fleet guard, pre mixed 50/50 ethylene glycol , before the over haul I was using Caltex 50/50 but only 8 ltrs, and the rest topped off with distilled water, before, running temp was around the 89c – 92c
My running temp is currently around the 89c – 96c mixed driving standing still with an ambient of between 37c – 42c. At 120k’s, the viscous fan starts to pull in around 92c 94c, so that works and when it does its draws the temp down.
I know fitting a different condenser, with more fins per inch it will create more drag on the air, but at 120k.s with the ram effect?
My thinking is that the coolant is a greater concentrate then what was previously in there, less heat removal???
I was planning to remove as much as I can, flush, flush, and flush, refill with the Caltex which was previously in there.
Any other ideas, or am I on the wrong route?
Rgds,
Jim
What is that when its home?Quote:
Fitted a low fin height radiator, 8 months ago.
How does it compare with OEM on fin count and total fin area?
Regards Philip A
Hi,
Its a bespoke radiator made by Sereck Services in the Gulf, around $185 AUD, what this company do is take the old core, discard and re-core it with a new design, i will count the FPI a little later on. The overhaul fixtures & fittings stay the same, but the core is a little thicker as well.
Its heaps better then the old OEM one, which gave me trouble several years back.
Rgds,
Jim