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Thread: fitted ARP studs to my 3.9 V8 today.

  1. #1
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    fitted ARP studs to my 3.9 V8 today.

    I have been stripping my 3.9V8 to fit an almost new pair of heads with ARP studs and you beaut head gaskets recommended by TRS.

    After I do the second head possibly tomorrow , I will progress to the camshaft.
    Just a few notes on the ARP studs.
    It is easy to fit them to the heads by cleaning up the threads in the block and then installing the heads then hand screwing in the studs. The studs have an Allen socket in the top to help screw them in finger tight. The head and gasket are held by the dowels in the block

    The issue of getting the heads over the studs does not arise.
    As per several sets of instructions I lubed the washers and nuts with CRC Moly/graphite Assembly lube then tightened the nuts in 3 stages40-60-80 ft lbs (80 recommended by ARP using lube,or 85 with engine oil)
    I then loosened each nut in sequence 2 more times and retightened, and got some more angle .
    After the third torqueing, the instructions are to loosen off the nuts individually and then turn the stud by hand again until finger tight then torque once again..

    One thing I found interesting is that the studs do not bottom in the block, the thread is quite a bit shorter than the tapped hole. The stud actually bottoms on the top of the stud coarse thread and has I estimate about 5-8 MM space under. So there is no need to chase the thread to the very bottom.
    Its all pretty tedious and I could not imagine the average mechanic bothering but my impression is that this gasket is here to stay.

    I bloody hope so anyway.

    Regards Philip A

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    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Thanks for the tips. I'm hoping to do the same thing eventually. Of course it's tedious - it's an engine!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

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    Hi Phillip, I recently used the ARP studs on a 4.6 that I put into my RRC, very impressed with the quality of the kit. I think that they a worth the $s and gets rid of the stretch bolt saga. As you say a tedious process but worth the effort
    Nick

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    No more Torque cycling

    Just thought you might be interested.
    I received my ARP head and main studs from the USA today.

    They have been boxed with ARP Ultra-Torque lube included. This new lube eliminates the need for torque cycling apparently, so it's do it up once and that's it. No more undoing and re-torquing three times. I found the following video that explains simply, why the cycling has been necessary until now....I learnt something today :-)

    [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjBaWo0QMYU"]YouTube - ARP Ultra-Torque Tested on Horsepower TV[/ame]

    Cheers
    Andre
    Last edited by p38arover; 19th April 2015 at 01:43 PM. Reason: fixed video link

  5. #5
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    what was the brand of you beaut gasket ??

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    It is easy to fit them to the heads by cleaning up the threads in the block and then installing the heads then hand screwing in the studs. The studs have an Allen socket in the top to help screw them in finger tight. The head and gasket are held by the dowels in the block

    The issue of getting the heads over the studs does not arise.
    Now that's good to know. I had considered them for my engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    One thing I found interesting is that the studs do not bottom in the block, the thread is quite a bit shorter than the tapped hole. The stud actually bottoms on the top of the stud coarse thread and has I estimate about 5-8 MM space under. So there is no need to chase the thread to the very bottom.
    That might help avoid this type of cracking:

    http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2...-failures.html
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
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    bolts are so 20th century---


    so,, do I now ask my engine rebuilder what he used to lube my studs??
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  8. #8
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    what was the brand of you beaut gasket ??
    They didn't really have a prominent brand on the packaging, but I thought they were called "Perfect Seal" but I ran into a dead end on Google.

    If you want them just call Triumph Rover Spares and they will sell them to you for $58 each. Ouch but worth it if they keep the gases and water in , which the OEM ones don't very well. Gas yes water no.
    Regards Philip A

  9. #9
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    I find it funny when I did mine not so long ago, they were keen to recommend OEM,,,

    $58 is cheap insurance,,,
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  10. #10
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    I've used both std studs for the rover and had custom studs made by ARP for different applications and regardless of the lube they note to run a pre stretch. The initial torque cycling is to pre stretch the studs rather than build up the final tension. A better lube will reduce the friction and lessen the differences in final tension.

    So I wouldn't eliminate the pre torque sequence, but the final sequence will be a better result with their lube.

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