Exhaust wrap (110 2001 TD5)

OK, things seem to be getting a little confused.

Cast iron shouldn't be wrapped, it'll crack.

Yes, race cars wrap turbo manifolds, a 4WD isn't a race car.
If you want to coat a cast iron manifold, use HPC, Jet Hot, Swain Tech, etc paint/ceramic coatings. They don't retain near as much heat as the silica based wraps.



As Inc said, wrapping the exhaust system from the dump pipe to the t/case definitely reduces felt temps in the cabin on a Defender.
As stated in the other thread, mines been in place on a heavily tweaked 300Tdi 3" system for years, and the wrap is still fine.

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Originally Posted by incisor

my experience was the exact opposite.. on several vehicles ranging from a series with holden motor thru to disco and 110 with 300tdi and 4bd1 donks.

i just used 50mm x 3mm fibreglass wrap in a 50% overlap so that i was in effect getting a 6mm wrap.

i do it to every vehicle i get, except the vw i just bought, because it has stainless steel pipes and wrapping stainless pipes will kill them.

gets rid of a lot of heat and kills a bucketload of noise.

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Is this just regular stuff from supercheap? Remember the brand?

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Originally Posted by Ranga

Is this just regular stuff from supercheap? Remember the brand?

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i buy mine from autobarn and it is the white stuff.

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Originally Posted by incisor

i buy mine from autobarn and it is the white stuff.

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I had a look this morning. The only stuff they had was white webbing/cloth looking tape, and was $54 a roll! Is this the stuff you used?

Hi Ranga, what I have purchased from Autobarn is called "Coolit Thermotec" exhaust insulating wrap P/N 11002 [2"x50'].$96 IIRC.They had to order it in from Rocket Industries.Been busy so haven't made the time to install yet..It is not fibreglass as that doesn't cope with the max. temps that the exhaust can reach when the vehicle is working hard.Claims to contain no asbestos or carcinogens but doesn't actually say what it is made from.My understanding is that it is a silica based product.Hope this helps.Cheers, 130man.

yep, that is what i get from them..

i usually do from the bottom of the manifold thu to the rear of the transfer case.

what i did for my old rrc (85) got hold of one of those camping mats they are about 2'6" wide and about 6' long and about 1/4" thick . pulled up the carpet and layed it on the floor and up over the centre etc especialy under the dash . layed 2 strips along side of each other and now the carpet is cool to touch on a hot day

OK

I put the exhaust wrap on over the weekend and have now taken it for a couple of drives including this morning into the city. Certainly makes it a lot cooler inside. Mind you the outside temp is also down.

So my initial impression is that the wrap certainly reduces cabin temp.

I used a 100ft roll and did from the engine pipe all the way back to the last flange (back door). Note I dont have a cat converter or center muffler.

Hi Scott, glad to hear that you got the tape installed and that it is making a difference. Did you buy locally or import from the USA? Did you install it while the exhaust was on the vehicle or did you take the pipes off? I have yet to install mine as my weekends have been fully booked recently.Has there been any noticeable difference in noise levels? Cheers, 130man.

130man,

At the end I went for a local product I'll try and find the name and post it later.

I went for the volcanic rock impregnated wrap not sure it makes any difference as the cheaper wrap had the same spec’s. For that matter all the wraps seemed to have the same spec's

The price variation between suppliers for the thermotec varied considerably and very few of the sellers had any knowledge of the product except what they could read on the box.

I ordered the 100ft (30mts) role as I wished to reduce the heat past my belly tanks and also the transfer case which I had just put a “sump” on and that came within about 6 inches of the exhaust.

My brother and I put the wrap on without removing the exhaust. The wrap itself is a rather fragile weave and frays relatively easily. So if you're on your back pulling it over the exhause you need to make sure you don't catch any bolts or rub across the wrap itself,

We started at the last flange at the rear (about level with back door 110) wrapping towards the front this had the advantage that the wraps faced backwards. Wrapping from the front means the wraps will face the wind/crap blowing under the Def.

We also wet the wrap as we installed which apparently gives a tighter fit once it dries. We also cut the wrap at the joining flange rather than attempt wrapping over it. We also used SS hose clamps as we couldn't get the supplies SS ties to tighten correctly?

We overlapped the wrap 50% which was recommended hence why I used all bar abut 4 feet. But I was doing a long length

If I were to do it again I think I would remove the engine pipe as it is a very tight fit between the chaise rail and the exhaust from the first exhaust hanger and up into the engine bay.

Overall I think in the long run it would be quicker and a lot easier to get a consistent wrap. Also from what I gather “all” the wraps are a impregnated fibreglass base product.

As said earlier I used SS hose clams to ensure we got a good clamping at the start and finish of each run and also around each hanger. I also put a clamp at the top of the fist bend and then at the start of the straight run heading back. In total used abut 12 claims to insure the wrap will not “un”wrap.