Series 3 Stage 1 axles already have CVs - I just fitted one of them.
Have a read here about fitting a coiller axle:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...onversion.html
However, plenty of jeeps were constant 4x4 and had UJs in the front axle. In a series you would notice a bit of feedback in the steering at full lock but that is all.
Soooo...If I got a Stage one front axle and 200tdi engine, gearbox and transfer case from a defender it could all be put together reasonably easily? (reasonably being the key word).
OR, would it be better to keep teh defender transfer case? If so what are the implicatiosn for gear levers etc and where they pop up, and mounting parts?
Cheers
Jim
That's the US Pirate way of measuring axles Ben, but doesn't take into account designed scrub radius, king pin inclination etc.I doubt you'd get away with WMS comparisons when attempting to get an axle swap engineered, if the engineer knew his stuff. A 4wd truck front axle that was designed for half dualls has a significantly larger WMS than actual track width for example.Fit regular single wheels from a 1300 Inter pickup to a duall wheel 1300 and the scrub radius and wheel bearing loads would be excessive. The Series spec sheet listed the track width on 5'' wide rims and 6.00x16s as 51.5''.They incorrectly gave the same for LWB and 2A FCs despite wider rims with greater offset. Maybe add 1'' to the track measurement for LWB 5.5'' rims. The RRC on 6'' Rostyle rims and 205x16s was 58.5''. May be wrong about the 40 series but was either 53.5" or 55.5''. Been a few years since I had a spec sheet on them.
Wagoo.
JImmy
I have just transplanted a Nissan SD33T in series 3 LWB. From all accounts a very good cheap conversion if you can do it yourself. I have used the Nissan 5 speed box and transfer as well. Bit of a squeeze but easy with a chassis up build. Have not had it on the road yet but all the figures add up. The Nissan diff is a 4.6 and Landrover is 4.7 so good road speed is expected. The 6 cylinder is a very smooth engine and rated @ 110hp at somewhere around 3500-4000.
Very reliable drive train that can be run with no electronics as long as the engine is running or you have a long hill to roll start. Make sure it is a 12 volt system... My project was driven by designing a simple,reliable touring machine with the classic look.
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