Thread: EGR cooler failure!

Yesterday had the egr cooler fail internally somewhere. TD5 Defender. (will chop it open to find out where later) Luckily was running around playing with the new nanocom with coolant display up. Upon seeing a sharp rise in temp jumped out to find coolant coming out of the egr cooler, hadn't removed it after removing egr a few years back. What the **** is going on here I thought. Connected the inlet and outlet together to get me home, so now I'm doing what I should of in the first place. Remove everything associated with the egr. Have been reading up on other posts and referring with rave to do this. On my rave cd it only shows one control solenoid for the egr, mine has two. I'd like to totally remove all associated hoses and fixtures. Rave doesn't indicate any faults associated with the egr solenoid not working, just outlines that the egr won't work. So if I remove both egr control solenoids I'm hoping/assuming the ecm won't recognise there not there and won't throw a fault. Is this correct? Will then tape up the connectors and tuck them away.
Might be something for others to keep an eye out for if like me took the lazy way out in removing the egr and blanking off the exhaust manifold, leaving the cooler in place.

Any advice appreciated.
Cheers,
Tod.

More work but you can convert to the pre EGR cooler model. This has the advantage of reducing the number of joins and pipes.

Also you get the added advantage it standardises a lot of the pipe sizes.

You need to replace the four way connector under the reservoir with a three way. You need to run a new pipe from the heater directly this. The pipe is now a standard size on at both ends.

You take the coolant from the end of the metal pipe down to the bottom of the radiator. However you have to remove the radiator first to drill out the spigot that you should be able to see in the corner unused.

If you haven’t replaced the coolant pipes this is an ideal opportunity to do this.

A bit of a job but well worth it in my opinion.