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Thread: Borg Warner viscous, Care & Feeding

  1. #1
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    Borg Warner viscous, Care & Feeding

    This is related to other threads here, but I want to concentrate on what makes them work, or break, and how to extend the life to something financially bearable.

    Or to put it another way, how NOT to stuff up a BW viscous !
    At the moment, my 95 Classic soft-dash is off the road with.... you guessed it, stuffed BW t/fer.

    Incidently, has anyone taken a seized one and cut it open and worked out WHY its locked up ? - Fluid degradation or the interleaved plates deforming and touching, - or both?

    Brf history. It took 10 years to do the first 70K on sealed roads only, then 6 to do the next 70 as a family wagon, lots of beach work but little or no rocky stuff. First half was serviced by dealers, second half by local mug-chanic...

    I bought it at 145K, now its done 156K, and I'd say that the BW has been dying for the last 1 to 3K, difficult to say exactly...

    When purchased, it had new Coopers on the front, and half-worn ones on the rear. There was no hint of scalloping on either pair. Pressures were similar F & R, around 32psi.

    I've since replaced all 4 (normal) sized tyres with a differant brand but similar size, and over the last month or so have noticed all the symptoms of a seized viscous...

    Reliable sources tell me that differant size tyres front to rear are a big NO-NO. - but what about tyre pressures ??? Bearing in mind that LR recommends 28/38 psi Front/Rear whether loaded or not, is there something in this that's related to the relative rotational speeds of Front & Rear wheels ?

    So far all I can figure out is :- to keep tyres the same size, regularly change the transmission fluid with top-quality stuff and do all my driving on loose gravel roads! - But the huge differance in front/rear pressures has me worried... especially as "Everyone" ignores it and just puts in 32+ and same front & rear...

    Maybe thats a factor in 'everyone' eventually having trouble with a seized viscous...

    Help !

    James in Gosnells

    The 'EH' 95 Classic Vogue SE with *working* EAS and Cruise Control, but stuffed BW.....

    -

  2. #2
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    This is related to other threads here, but I want to concentrate on what makes them work, or break, and how to extend the life to something financially bearable.

    I cannot give you any "cut apart" advice as mine is still going well at 196KK.
    However this is my experience.
    I change the oil with Castrol synthetic ATF about every 20Kk now and I add some Moly or Teflon. I check my viscous at every 5K oil change. I recently changed the front seal on the box as it started to leak. I do not worry about slop in the front bearing as that is normal. Hopefully the above will reduce the operating temps in the TC. The oil discolours very quickly ( as I posted a while ago) so it seems to work hard.

    I have a feeling that a lot of soft sand work will probably shorten the VC life as it has to heat up before it will lock and in sand the front and rear axles will turn at different speeds before the VC locks, so it will be constantly hot.

    Regarding tyres, I have always run 40PSI rear and 28-32 front . Most of my work is done with a reasonable load and towing so I would imagine the tyre diameters would be similar. I have never used different tyres or tyres worn differently front to back.

    Time will tell how long mine will last but I do think one key is good oil very often. This should help the rear output shaft but who knows?
    Regards Philip A

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    Hi we used to rebuild/repack the viscous units but stopped when new became more economic. The silicon fluid in the coupling, when overheated, changes state and becomes solid, very like a solid lump of rubber. BE VERY CAREFUL if you attempt to split a unit, when the silicon changed state it expands and it often splits the weld, if it doesnt split the weld and you put it in your lathe to turn the weld off it will most likely EXPLODE blowing the end off, be warned.
    Anyway assuming you split the coupling chances are a couple of plates are scrapped and will need replacing so you will need a second sacrificial unit, obtaining the silicon, with the correct viscosity and the anti oxident added is a nightmare (in the UK).
    Hope this doesnt sound too negative but do be careful, I found out the hard way, ouch.
    Regards Ian Ashcroft

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    The viscous coupling in my Rangie had done around 650,000 kms when I sold the car. it was functioning perfectly.
    I changed the oil once a year using Nulon fully synthetic oil and half a litre of Lucas auto trans additive.
    I was always careful with the tyre pressures running the standard tyres at the recommended pressures and my mud tyres a little lower but in a similar proportion of pressure front to back.
    The car was a daily driver, always heavily loaded. As for 4wding, I did not spend too much time in mud if I could avoid it but used the usual High Country tracks winter and summer including a fair bit of snow driving.

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    Why would changing the transmission fluid make any difference to the life of the VC? They are separate items.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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    Well maybe no effect but I was talking about the entiire BW trans.
    However I guess you could argue that the trans will run cooler and that will keep the VC cooler when not slipping.
    Regards Philip A

  7. #7
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Ashcroft View Post
    Hi we used to rebuild/repack the viscous units but stopped when new became more economic.
    Hi Ian .... Thanks for weighing in the subject
    Could you tell us if the RRC Viscous hub itself, is the same internal construction design as the P38?

    Cheers
    Mike

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    Hi Mike yes the couplings are physically identical and can for be interchanged, there may be a slightly different slip limit but for all practical purposes they are the same.
    As a matter of interest these couplings transmit a fixed torque up to their design limit (then they slip and overheat), this is why you cannot spectacle tow a RR or a freelander ( freelander visc coupling is same principle but more plates as it is a direct drive not a visc controlled diff). Many people think th couplings slip up to a limit then start to lock up, not so, for exampile you can drive a RR without the front prop but if you drive it agressively the coupling will slip, overheat, and go solid.

    Regards Ian Ashcroft

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    However I guess you could argue that the trans will run cooler and that will keep the VC cooler when not slipping.
    A bit of a stretch there, Philip! I'm not convinced.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  10. #10
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Ashcroft View Post
    \this is why you cannot spectacle tow a RR or a freelander (
    I had to go and Google that. This raises a question. This type of tow truck is used in Sydney to move cars from clearways. I've often wondered if they will cause damage to AWD vehicles with a VC.

    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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