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Thread: Swivel preload again

  1. 3rd May 2011, 09:58 AM #11
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    JDNSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    From memory ...
    The Swivel preload test is done with the swivel seal removed

    Cheers
    Mike
    Yes, but adding about two pounds to the tension allows for the seal. In practice, there is a reasonable range of preload that seems to work satisfactorily. If it is too tight you get poor self centring, but if too loose you get shimmy. In my experience, the workable range seems to be from 50% above the book to only slight resistance felt, although obviously, if the damping at the swivel is trying to cope with other steering faults, you need to be in the upper part of the range.

    Almost always, when I have checked preload prompted by the development of shimmy, the preload has been zero or near enough to on at least one swivel.

    John
    John

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  2. 3rd May 2011, 10:08 AM #12
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    how many lbs/kgs should the preload be?

    i think we have a spring gauge here at work
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  3. 3rd May 2011, 10:22 AM #13
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    You can just allow for seal drag when doing it either with a gauge or by hand.
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Yes, but adding about two pounds to the tension

    It's only 6 odd extra bolts to get it right ....
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  4. 3rd May 2011, 11:43 AM #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    how many lbs/kgs should the preload be?

    i think we have a spring gauge here at work
    8-10lbs, 3.6-4.5kg measured at the track rod ball joint eye, and taking the steady reading after it has started moving. The pull should be at right angles to the line joining the eye and the swivel.

    But as I said, my experience shows that the actual value is not all that critical, as long as there is some preload.

    John
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  5. 3rd May 2011, 11:44 AM #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    It's only 6 odd extra bolts to get it right ....
    Small, fiddly bolts, and then you have to clean off the sealant you put behind the seal to make sure it did not leak........

    John
    Last edited by JDNSW; 3rd May 2011 at 12:02 PM. Reason: speling
    John

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  6. 3rd May 2011, 11:56 AM #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    It's only 6 odd extra bolts to get it right ....
    I did mine without a gauge at all, but with the seal removed. Steering self centres and no shimmy. As JDNSW says, the actual preload isn't critical, just as long as you have some.
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  7. 3rd May 2011, 12:39 PM #17
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Small, fiddly bolts, and then you have to clean off the sealant you put behind the seal to make sure it did not leak........

    John
    Done a few ... Oil filled swivels ... No sealant (used new seal) ...

    .... It never leaks

    However, Holimar 3, is my friend for sealants ....



    Fiddly bolts? ... ... Better than the propshaft bolts ...

    Cheers
    Mike
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  8. 3rd May 2011, 12:48 PM #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Better than the propshaft bolts ...
    What's wrong with them?

    A 1/4" drive 9/16ths" socket is what you need .
    Scott
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  9. 3rd May 2011, 01:06 PM #19
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    What's wrong with them?
    I just find them to be a PITA .... .... Their been my pet hate since Day 1

    One day I'm gonna find that 9/16ths, that I can grind down the top part to a round shoulder, to clear the uni joint
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  10. 3rd May 2011, 01:10 PM #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Small, fiddly bolts, and then you have to clean off the sealant you put behind the seal to make sure it did not leak........

    John
    John, if you don't wish to lose any oil from the swivel housing, try supporting it from underneath with some packing or a jack while removing the shims and wouldn't you like to strangle the bastard that designed the brake hose bracket, Regards Frank.
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