I need ideas on what could be causing a nasty knocking in my engine please.
Recently I replaced the camshaft; lifters; timing wheels and chain. I like to take my time and double-check everything, so four days later I had the job done it seemed. I did have a bit of trouble priming the oil pump until I used Bee Utey's suggestion and pumped oil into the pressure switch hole. Whilst cranking the engine with the injector relay disconnected, it did start and run for about 3 seconds because I had forgotten to disconnect the coil but the pressure light went off just before it stalled - I think it was running on the smell of throttle body cleaner.
When I deemed it safe to start, it ran perfectly on all cylinders much better than it had before. Mindful that a new cam needs to be run-in I took it for a 10km drive and nothing seemed bad but when I got home a knock, which sounded like a big-end or two, had started
I shorted each plug in turn to try and find out which one it was, with no result, so I put it on the ramp and drained the oil, which showed what seem to be white metal flakes about 1mm wide by about 3mm long. The sump also had the same particles sitting in the bottom. The big ends were worn slightly but no copper was showing and no damage to explain the metal flakes - i will replace them anyway.
I plan to check the main bearings next but I can't see how such large particles could escape from a bearing such as this.
Could it be aluminium from the oil pump housing? If it is how could this explain the knocking? The knock is not present when the engine is cold but appears when the oil gets warm. I don't think it could be cylinder liners and in any case the metal in the oil tends to discount this.
Any ideas will be appreciated,
Cheers Charlie
Well I lubed it with Penrite grease and took it for a 10km run at 90 to 100km/h and I avoided any excessive idling before doing that; so I don't know what more I could have done.
I forgot to mention that the particles in the sump are non-magnetic and melted quickly under a soft LPG flame, which must mean either white-metal or aluminium. There is no sign of any magnetic metal at all.
Thanks for your thoughts,
Cheers Charlie
Charlie,
have you opened the engine oil filter to see if theres any metal in there?
if there were no signs of damage to the big end bearings its unlikley that the metal came from the oil pump. it may be that the cam has milled some metal off the block or you have damaged a cam bearing during the change out.
Roger
To run a cam in you hold the engine revs up around 2000 for about 20 minutes. This work hardens the lobes.
I have eliminated the big-ends and four of the main-bearings from the enquiry; very slight wear mainly on the big-ends and after 253 000km less than I expected.
Roger, I haven't opened the filter yet but there was a fair bit of metal in the sump oil. Good suggestion; I will do that next.I didn't damage the bearings putting the cam in - I was extremely careful not to. The lifters were primed; the camshaft end-float checked; the key clearance on the cam checked; the chain and wheels oiled; and the motor was rotated four times by hand to make sure nothing was binding. I made sure the thrust plate was in place as well.
Your suggestion about the cam milling the block may well be the case, but I can't think what I can have done wrong to cause that. Any ideas?
BigJon, I ran it up at 2000rpm for about 3 or 4 minutes and then got it out of the shed and took it for the gallop out to my farm, all of which would have been in the 2000/2200rpm range, so I don't think I have done anything wrong there.
Thanks for your comments chaps,
Cheers Charlie
I would take the timing cover off and check for evidence of the timing gear fouling the inside of the cover due to incorrect fitment or wrong parts.
I think my next steps will be:
1. Replace big-end bearing shells - mainly because I might as well while the sump is off.
2. Fit oil pressure gauge and check that there actually is decent pressure.
3. Play it from there with an investigation of the cam and followers, followed by or preceded by, an investigation of the pump and timing mechanism.
Did you use a single row cam chain .... or a double row?
When I have done cams in my other cars the instructions have always said 2000rpm or 2500 rpm for ten minutes no load then you gradually come down in increments one of my friends didn t do this properly with a crane cam on his 304 commodore and wiped out two lobes after one drive and it also sounded like a big end you can take of rocker covers and you could check when its running at idle if all lifters are operating at same lift just be careful not to get oil every were
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