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Thread: Relay Questions

  1. #1
    stewie110 Guest

    Relay Questions

    Hi All,

    I've searched around but have been unable to find a specific answer to my question so Here it is..

    i have a problem where the spot lights on my 2001 Defender just stopped working.... Ive checked all the cables and everything seems pretty good, I have complete circuits so I don't know if that's the problem.. however I have some questions..

    The relay in question is a Proquip P1512X 12v 40amp.. The wire that comes from the light switch is coming in with 11.65volts... I know the relay works because If I connect up the same wire i can hear it switch over.. however I don't hear anything when I switch the switch on the normal circuit which I suspect (with my extremely limited electrical knowledge) means that the 11.65 volts is insufficient to switch?

    Now I've traced the cable from the switch in the dash back to the relay.. The switch in the dash is hard to trace but it seems like one point on the switch goes to 'earth' and the other goes to the relay.. is that correct ? I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the way this car was wired by a previous owner seems a little different.. So excuse the newbie questions.

    Regards,

    Jimmy.

  2. #2
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    It is fairly common to take the switching 12 volts from high beam and run a single wire inside through the switch to earth. This means if you drop high beam or turn the switch off, your driving lights go out. 11 odd volts should still switch a small relay

    HTH

  3. #3
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    this one?

    5 PIN NORMALLY OPEN MINI RELAYS

    STOCK CODE DESCRIPTION TYPE PROTECTION LAYOUT WIRING DIAGRAM
    6600B P1512R 12V, 40A Resistor A 1 FORM A
    (2 x #87)
    6600AB P1512RO As Above: Plain relay housing / No mounting bracket
    6615B P1512X 12V, 40A Diac A 1 FORM A
    (2 x #87)
    6621B P1512X (With
    Moulded Bracket) 12V, 40A Diac A 1 FORM A

    Pro Quip*Relays
    (2 x #87)


    Try applying power to the relay and see if you get an output to the driving lights if not there could be a fuse in the wiring there should be, it may be blown. As pop says most setups have the switching power taken from the high beam wire through the relay and then to earth the fuse would be in line from the battery

    should be something like this

    terminal 30 feed from battery
    terminal 87(x2) one to each spotlight
    terminal 86 from high beam or you dash switch
    terminal 85 to earth

    terminals 86 and 85 may be other way around depending on the installer

  4. #4
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by THE BOOGER View Post
    this one?

    5 PIN NORMALLY OPEN MINI RELAYS

    STOCK CODE DESCRIPTION TYPE PROTECTION LAYOUT WIRING DIAGRAM
    6600B P1512R 12V, 40A Resistor A 1 FORM A
    (2 x #87)
    6600AB P1512RO As Above: Plain relay housing / No mounting bracket
    6615B P1512X 12V, 40A Diac A 1 FORM A
    (2 x #87)
    6621B P1512X (With
    Moulded Bracket) 12V, 40A Diac A 1 FORM A

    Pro Quip*Relays
    (2 x #87)


    Try applying power to the relay and see if you get an output to the driving lights if not there could be a fuse in the wiring there should be, it may be blown. As pop says most setups have the switching power taken from the high beam wire through the relay and then to earth the fuse would be in line from the battery

    should be something like this

    terminal 30 feed from battery
    terminal 87(x2) one to each spotlight
    terminal 86 from high beam
    terminal 85 to your dash switch
    terminals 86 and 85 may be other way around depending on the installer
    if earth is being made at the dash switch you will need to wire up as per the red text

    here is an image to help

    Last edited by slug_burner; 14th May 2011 at 09:28 PM. Reason: added image

  5. #5
    stewie110 Guest

    Thanks

    Thanks for your help.

    I've gone through all the wiring and found that most of the connections are extremely poor or corroded badly. I want to basically re-do the wiring properly with no crappy "just twist it and she'll be right" attitude..

    I was looking for the high-temp automotive electrical cables that I felt would be required for the under bonnet wiring.. seems difficult for me to find (at least at Jaycar).. Do do the job properly can anyone recommend what I need to buy in terms of wire category, what connectors are recommended and what types of solder etc.. I'm an electrical newbie so It's all part of my master plan to learn new stuff..

  6. #6
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    spot light wireing

    I run 4mm sq from the battery to the relay and then the same sized wire to the spot lights. "Standard" three mm wire from the high beam to the switch and then on to activate the relay. No problems with heating. All fitings are soldered. [If that makes sense.]

    Tony
    Last edited by Grumpy; 11th August 2011 at 09:07 PM. Reason: Amended wording

  7. #7
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    I suggest you wander into a good auto store, ask to see the Narva catalogue, purchase some auto grade wire of suitable size (amp rating should be 50% higher than the load, thin stuff only is needed to switch the relay), a ratchet terminal crimper and some fully insulated crimp terminals to suit. The ratchet crimper gets loads of force on the crimp and makes a reliable connection. Make sure the copper wire fills the crimp cavity, sometimes you twist the strands to bulk them up, sometimes you double over the wire. A ratchet crimper is for life, pay the $$$ and have the tool always. The fully insulated crimp terminals help keep the dirt off the spade connections. Buy a few different blister packs of terminals. Narva wiring stuff is pretty good, I use it every day.

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