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You may not need new pistons.....unless you are already running oversize and want to go back to standard?
My motor is in bits and most of it at a motor engineering shop as we speak. My standard pistons looked fine when i pulled them out, and the shop confirmed this when measuring them up. So just new rings on that front for me.
I ordered TH Liners from the UK last Monday afternoon. They arrived Thursday morning.
Cheers
Andre
It looks to me that coolant has been coming up between the block and the liner - they look like holes. Can you clean the deck up and take more pix?Quote:
Originally Posted by milld
If it is as I think, then you had no option but to remove the engine in order to have it fixed properly.
Slipped liners can usually be felt as a slight difference between the height of the block and the top of the piston. Sometimes it is quite a large difference, e.g. 5 mm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
... I can see the 3 pin holes ...:eek: ... Corrosion?
... Good spotting Ron :)
Yeah, I'll clean it up this weekend and take some more pics. But yes there looks to be indents. Not sure if they are holes. It seems silly though, because coolant is always going to be sitting on that exposed bit of alloy. Why isn't the head matched to the hole so it can't corrode the rest of the alloy?. Is this common for an RV8 block to have this much corrosion? I can't feel any lip with my finger nail for the slipped liner. But I'm not going to risk putting it back together, think I'll send the block to MR automotive for some top hat liners, or maybe scrap this block? I've got another 3.9 serp with 250k on it. A new cam, lifters and chain should breath some life in to it.
So how much did the top hat liners set you back?Quote:
Originally Posted by LRCounty
Cheers
Just the Liners delivered to my door from Turner Engineering $670.00 :eek:
i can't remember the exact amount for fitting them, as I am getting a bunch of stuff done by the shop...heads...crank grind....they are providing all my bearings....inlet manifold mod for old County heater matrix connection...oil pump cover facing, main bearing align hone with ARP studs fitted etc etc......once you start, it doesn't stop.
I couldn't bring myself to put it back together with any doubts. The other choice is an empty wallet, but hopefully going the "whole hog" means I don't have to empty it again for a long while.....on the motor at least. :angel:
I nearly followed the path of Cal415 with his LS1 swap.......next time for sure.
Cheers
Andre
That's not bad. I paid $800 for eight in Sydney.Quote:
Originally Posted by LRCounty
Get a full dynamic balance while you're at it.
Okay I got a pic to show it cleaned up. I used a different camera, I'll try and post a zoomed up version, but this is all for now.Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
Just off the topic, where's the best place to buy the metal rail pipes with the water filler that sits on top of the motor? Mine are corroded but I see that some places want around $250 for it.:eek: It should be no more than $50 from my point of view. Any ideas? Ebay has stainless version for $160 but with no filler. I thought you need the filler to bleed the system correctly?