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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1279.jpg
The Unit Once Removed from the car.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1281.jpg
with the rivets drilled out and the cover off
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1283.jpg
prise off the covers. these only cover the crimp joins, not the contacts.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1286.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1287.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1288.jpg
I marked the position of the wheel before removing it - this is not necessary
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1289.jpg
remove the wheel and clean the O-Ring seals on each side
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1290.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1292.jpg
use contact cleaner / or carby cleaner which dries without a film to clean the unit
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1379.jpg
Do not remove the tan colored tabs, these are more fragile, and help hold wires into place.
Do not attempt to remove the covers of the 2 electrical switches (the ones with covers still on).
Instead, the whole internal mechanism can be prised out.
The electrical contact will be visible on the top (outer) side and will need a good clean.
The silver detents that are pushed by the cam on the inside just push the contacts open, there's no electrical connection there. Give them a clean, they will wiggle a bit, but make sure that if they're pushed in with the tip of a screw driver, they 'spring' the contact open.
Reassemble, seal and replace the rivets with bolts & nylocks.
More photos to come of the later stages, which I'll replicate these steps on one of the spare units and post them up in a couple of days.
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It looks that neat I thought it was screwed/bolted together.
Still if you get a few spares I'd buy an exchange or outright reco'd unit.
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D2 Auto Selector Switch. p/n UHB100190
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1279.jpg
Drill out the rivets
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1280.jpg
Cover Off
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1281.jpg
A cover showing water ingress damage
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1282.jpg
Lift the tabs over the wire crimps
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1283.jpg
Tab off - wire crimps revealed
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1284.jpg
Continue to remove the tabs
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1285.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1286.jpg
All the tabs off
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1287.jpg
I marked the position of the wheel - this is not necassary
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1288.jpg
Remove the wheel - notice O-Ring seal either side of it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1289.jpg
The wheel
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1290.jpg
The cams on the wheel that actuate the switch.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1291.jpg
Clean with a contact cleaner that doesn't leave a residue
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1292.jpg
Prise out the whole assembly - do not remove the tan coloured tabs, and the micro-switches don't have prise open tops.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1293.jpg
The silver contacts are moved by the cam on the wheel to actuate the micro-switches. These cams have a mechanical function (not electrical). They will wobble a bit, but test that when pushed firmly in, they have some spring resistance as the open the electrical contact.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1294.jpg
The electrical contacts are on the outside of the assembly. Clean these well, they're like indicator stalk switches in the nature of their construction.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1295.jpg
Here you can see the wiring and both switches.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1296.jpg
Remove the rubber seal and apply silicone to both faces, then reuse the seal and bolt it together using nylock nuts.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1297.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...11/06/1298.jpg
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sorry if you looked earlier and the pics were not all there and labelled. It's now done.
I should put this up as a tutorial.
Thanks to Xtreme for this help in sending a couple of donor units.
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The step by step labelled photo post is now posted in tutorials under the heading :
Rebuild D2 ZF Selector Switch UHB100190
for easy future referral.
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Ripper pictorial Michael :twobeers:
As is obvious , I am very new here ... but have had a couple of Rovers for near 12 years now without too many issues ..
until now ... lolol
I have read quite a few of the posts here on this topic , but I still am a bit confused...
My 01 V8 starts fine usually then just lets out a few jolts after 15 min running and then the engine cuts out with all the associated lights flashing , M S and shifter red light ..
It turns over and all seems to work , but it will not fire up ?
I wait ten minutes or so while re trying every now and then to fire her up and then varoom , away she goes ... no lights , everything ok for another 15 / 20 min or so then it repeats its behavior .
She starts with no probs instantly every time cold with no warning lights on ... it is just once she has been running for a short time and warm that she stops and will not re start most of the time without waiting for what ever caused her to stop , to settle ?
She does not cut back to limp mode either , just stops ?
My question to you mate for your personal opinion/call on my problem is, does this sound like the behavior of a dirty/bad xyz switch, or just a voltage drop ?
Battery is running 12.8 off and around 13.7 on
btw ... sorry to post on your tutorial thread :-(
cheers
Steve
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Crank angle sensor ?
... just a thought.
Sent from my iPad using Braille
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Where are you located
There might be someone nearby with a scan tool that can look for historic errors to narrow your search. I've had the M&S lights flash with a CAN computer time out error. The loom for the XY switch is near the exhaust, so heat may be exacerbating a problem with the wiring. Have you unplugged anything lately and maybe plugged it back into the wrong plug? I've heard of a Volvo that had the Temp and Volt wires switched under the dash, that would cut out when it got hot. It took a very good and thorough mechanic / auto elec quite a while to find it, after the owner has spent thousands at various workshops.
Sent from my XT1068 using AULRO mobile app
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Thanks for the replies guys ...
Been reading heaps and love this place :- ) !!!
Michael , I am located in Central Vic ...
The nearest accredited dealer for good service is 2 hrs away in Melbourne ...
I did replace the alternator only a week ago , with only the usual basic electrical disconnections that are needed to do that ..
Fluids , mate you may be right? , but as was advised in another ripper post here , I am choosing to not pull everything !! possible apart at this time before exhausting the more simple things that may cause it ..
Though the battery seems to come up ok, I am getting it checked tomorrow first ...
It was a bit baffling why she would not drop back to" limp mode " and just stop ? each time ...
I was trying to see if anyone had exactly the same effect from this issue ?
Most posts seem to go along with the " dropped to limp mode " not just stopped and then comes good after a while ?
its got me buggered ... lol
Been underneath , checked for wiring soaked in chit or damaged ... nothing obvious there ...
The xyz thing cover has some oil on and around it , so after the battery test hopefully comes back ok ? ..., I will remove the switch and go with Michaels tutorial and service it ...
Michael , I have not un plugged anything at this time ... the wiring and plugs to the switch look clean and dry mate ?
After that , ? ..chit I will be back reading more and prolly whining for more help ... lolol
I feel a bit isolated here from good quality help , but you guys are such a great resource of information and help , that I am sure , even though I will be undoubtedly stuck on the side of lonely country roads up here a few more times yet , that I will eventually find the answer with your help .... :twobeers:
any more help atm is more than welcome ... thanks in advance !
cheers
Steve
