RTC3511 or something like that.
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What brand are they?
Land Rover ?
Probably Corteco, can't recall except I use 'genuine' and the part # is RTC 3511.
Remember they must be mounted 4mm below the hub face, otherwise you will kill them quick smart.
The secondary lip/scraper then contacts the stub axle flange face properly rather than being jammed into it.
OK thanks for the tip. Maybe I was not sitting them right. Going to get the seal tommorow and fit it Sunday.
I set them in until the outer lip is flush with the outer steel lip of the hub you're pressing them in to. Otherwise they get mashed up against the face of the stub and damaged.
I converted my front and back hubs to oil filled about 6 years ago, I just drilled and tapped the front drive flanges (1/8" gas), and put 60mls of oil in there, and never had a problem since. Except once when coming down mount Stirling (2200m) the hubs got so hot from using the brakes the rubber hub caps popped off. It's the only time it ever happened. I always carry a couple of spares anyhow. Those rubber caps are water tight and oil tight, i never saw water contamination in the oil, or leaks and I used to do a lot of deep water crossings.
The seals are still in the front axle housing and the between the hub and swivel housing. I was going to do it one day but it was an expensive and time consuming job. I measure the hub oil in with a big syringe. Since I converted the front and back, ( back seals are removed cos its easy to do) to oil filled I never had another problem with hub bearings or seals, ( seals like fitted to the LR county).
Every six months I jack the wheels up and check for play in the bearings , and adjust as required, with a slight preload, maybe 5 n/m. ( usually only one needs a nip up). The drive flanges and shafts are like new ones, because they're always "wet".
The trick is not to put too much oil in so theirs room for expansion. I used to put 80 mls in but I think 60- 70 mls is better. It's the cheapest and best modifications i ever did, the hubs run cooler, and if you do get water in there you can drain it out and refill with oil. you don't have to strip the hub like i used to have to do.
My measure if the 4 hubs are Ok is, no play when I jack the wheel up, and if i pull over during a drive on the highway and feel the hubs they are warm to touch maybe 50 deg C , but I can always hold my hand on them. If you can't hold you hand on them after coasting to a stop on the side of the highway there's' a problem. simmo:cool: