Fitted my new AULRO sticker to the back window. No tools required, but still made me proud. :-)
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Fitted my new AULRO sticker to the back window. No tools required, but still made me proud. :-)
Hope you removed the clear film too.Quote:
Originally Posted by njhey
I know a bloke that fitted his sticker and then drove around for 6 months with the clear still on before another forum member pointed out his error.
:wasntme: (well - maybe it was :angel:)
Steve
I did my first wheel bearing renewal today - it took me about 4 hours (including cleaning things in the area which took about 1.5 hours). I was a bit concerned about torquing up the nut and lock nut - they were both only hand tight when I took them out, so I did them up tight and then backed them off. The worst problem was the circlip at the front of the hub (need better circlip pliers, and the shaft kept pushing in) and getting the brake bracket off without removing the ABS equipment.
Anyway, only another 3 wheels to go :-)
Today parked 'Peter' the Defender we brought from Paul.
Now rests in peace in pieces in the collection.
.
I find that if you have an old steel spare wheel floating around it can become handy here. when tightening the 'inner' nut (closest to the bearings) make sure you have the spare steel wheel on also, tighten until you just get no movement by grabbing either side of the wheel (top/bottom and side/side). -the spare wheel helps because you have a bit more leverage and dont have to rely on grabbing the rotor. This will help avoiding a lot of guess work and the risk of over-tightening. then place the washer in and tighten the 'outer' (lock nut) firmly.Quote:
Originally Posted by njhey
I tend to inspect and re-tension every 15k - 20k.
This process works for me, although, I am interested in others techniques also..
-Jarrod.
ps. if you find you don't get movement side to side but do get movement up and down after 'nipping up the inner bearing then inspect your swivel hubs. ..helps to have a second set of eyes if this is the case..
picked up my double cardinal prop shaft + D2 T/F pinion today to install into the D1. :D
Put it in the shed next to the D1 roof rails, new wheel bearings, reco'd swivel hubs, replacement custom 10->24 spline CVs, HD drive flanges, 3" stainless mandrel exhaust ...and everything else that's waiting for a sunny day to be installed. :(
...all the money im spending on the disco would just about build me a shed ...hmm.
Will need to look at my swivel hubs soon. When I unbolted the brake retaining bracket doing the bearings black sludge poured out of the bottom of the hub. I thought it would have been grease filled being a '98 model (haven't had a chance to get to that yet). Anyway, refilled it with diff oil temporarily and will get some "one shots". Not sure how I'm going to empty them though as there is a filler (square plug) but no drain. D'oh.
My shed is becoming the same as yours Jarrod, I am falling behind - should have also done the pads, disks and swivel hubs while I was at it today, but thought that just the bearings would be enough of a "starter" project. Glad I didn't try to do it all, I wouldn't have a truck for the next 4 days, and would have probably done my back.
Actually, just wondering if the oil coming out of the hub is normal when just undoing those bolts on top of the hub that retain the bracket...argh. So much to learn.
Yesterday I changed oil and filter, greased propshafts and checked driveline oil levels. Had to top up transfer case (took a dribble) and I put a bit of CV grease into the left hand swivel to slow the leak down until I can fix it properly.
Today the right rear power window went down and stayed down. Who knows when I will get a chance to look at it.
If you haven't actually performed a "wheel bearing oil-feed conversion" then if you have oil coming out then this probably means either someone in the past has filled your swivel hubs with oil or the oil seal that separates your diff oil and the swivel hubs has decayed.Quote:
Originally Posted by njhey
If the oil coming out is black then this might be an indication of cross contamination between original CV grease and diff oil. (check that your diff oil is not black, it shouldn't be)
On the subject of oil-feed conversions there are 2 ways to do it.
Method 1:\ is to remove the seal between the diff oil and the swivel hub, this will allow oil to intentionally pass from the diff, through the swivel hub and into the wheel bearings area therefore lubricating all components with the same oil.
Method 2:\ leave seal (or replace seal) between diff and swivel hub, then fill the swivel hub with diff oil, this will isolate oils and decrease risk of cross contamination between the diff and both the swivel hubs.
both will require the replacement of the oil seal behind the bearings in the brake rotor with an 'older style' double edged seal.
I personally opted for option no.1 but there are mixed opinions between the both.
this is worth doing your own research, which I recommend anyway before considering this option.
imho, both options 1 and 2 are "safer" then the typical grease option as there are some bad stories of wheel bearings becoming contaminated with water and seizing. this happened to a friend of mine and he said it was a very frightening experience being pulled across 4 traffic lanes
I have owned 3 and a half discos and after having the front bearings fail on a long trip and basically weld themselves to the stub axle (with my first disco) I have used the oil conversion method ever since.
-Jarrod.
ps. there are quite a few threads covering the above mentioned procedures detailing the specifics if you are interested in pursuing the conversion. its easier than you might think. ;)
Wow, thank you for the quick and informative response. Will start reading!
n