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Came back from two days away to discover George had a slow drip of fuel under the driver's side rear and a wet patch in the carport. Can see where it's emerging but not where it originates. Have t? get it to the workshop to be fixed.
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Water pump (2.25 engine) sprung a leak, so I dismantled it and fitted a new seal. Before trying to remove the impeller I applied a bit of heat with the gas torch just to encourage removal. The impeller had two threaded holes (1/4" UNF) in it for removal. I made up a "puller" to do the job. The threads in the impeller were rather rusty and gave in when I put some tension on them. I drilled them out to a larger size and then tapped them with 5/16 UNF. The impeller glided off freely. The face on the impeller where the seal runs was grooved, hence the leak.
Cheers, Mick.
Thanks rick13, that explains a bit anyway - will recheck with new torque setting during the week. Not the old tin cover anymore, though she served me well for 20 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
I had a full kit for the pump, however the bearing felt good, it wasn't dry or notchy. As the replacement kit had a larger diameter shaft, 5/8" as opposed to 1/2" however the seal in the repair kit was the same dimensions as the faulty one I removed.
Cheers, Mick.
Next came fitting the new seal and a 32mm socket was perfect for the job.
A few gentle taps with the hammer and it was home.
Then the impeller was pressed into place. I didn't need to use the press for this, just a large G-clamp. As the clamp didn't have the fine adjustment necessary to get it to the correct tolerance, I pushed it almost home then used the puller to adjust it back. The original was set at .020" and my manual listed .025"
Next job was to refit the pump.
Cheers, Mick.
Installed a Connects2 brand aux adapter on the sound system in my D2. Replaces the CD player with an aux port for modern devices. Plug and play except for working out how to pull out the head unit and climate control unit.
Here's something I hope we don't see regularly - a rusty fuel filter with a hole in it. Came home to find George had piddled on the carport floor just in front of the driver's side rear wheel. Fuel was dripping out the guard around the rear fuel filter. I thought the drain plug must have come loose, so pulled off the guard and squeezed the plug tighter - and the drip turned into a waterfall! Shouted at the wife to bring a bucket to catch the fuel. My fingers could feel a hole in the filter.
Jumped in the Mazda and headed to Autobarn, where I had previously bought filters for the D1 for about $50, but no luck - didn't have one. Headed to the new LR dealer in Springwood and, smelling strongly of diesel, invaded their flash showroom with its expensive Rangies, Jaguars, Discos and one remaining 90, and found a helpful bloke. Yes, they had 2 filters and he could even give me a discount - from $106 to $96.
So, home again, to find the fuel flow had stopped as the filter emptied. Off with the old and on with the new. Started first time.
I noticed the old filter was twisted to the left and was slightly loose, so turned it all the way to the right and it fitted firmly. Nothing in the service record says the filter had ever been replaced. My theory is it had been loose from the factory and the vibrations had caused metal fatigue and a crack, which rusted and opened a hole.
So, hopefully I will never again see a fuel filter with a hole in it.
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Maybe u should cut it open to check it hasnt got any water or other contaminants in it, just for peace of mind. I would.
Cheers Rod
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Mick, how many K's has your car done now?
I feel guilty typing this, but In my defence my puma only has 33,000km on it...
What's the best way to check the diesel water filter? I've never done it before :whistling:
Gut feel is ignition on to ACC (prime the pump?) Clear Glass or equivalent jar to drail diesel into, give it a bit to drain while looking for any water that settles out... Close tap, keep driving?
Is there any risk of draining too much? IGN on or off? Any other tips for young players?