What did you do on your Landy today?

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Originally Posted by rick130

Possibly debatable whether it reduces temps but it can't hurt and adds about 600ml's to the fluid capacity which you would think has to help reduce temps slightly.

I added a steel sandwich plate between the t/case and sump to help stop potential case spreading under big torque with the lower low range gears I fitted and it acts as an oil baffle too.

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this is on a series vehicle, and it is just a straight swap for the existing flat steel cover so you dont get any bigger fluid capacity.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/762.jpg

like you, i think the heat dissipation would be very marginal but it looks impressive :angel:

i got it for next to nothing and i thought it may help in some way even if it is only aesthetic, so i did the deed while i was under there..

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Originally Posted by DiscoMick

Thanks, but this is a Puma not a Td5.
The vehicle had sat with the new filter in for a day so there had been time for the fuel to move naturally if it was going to do that. I checked the new filter was full of fuel by opening the bleed screw on the bottom until fuel ran out.
I had lost about half a bucket of fuel so I knew there would be an empty line between the new filter and the fuel pump up front. Normally if it was just a matter of changing the filter not so much fuel would have been lost, I assume.
The guy at the LR dealer where I bought the new filter said the system down the back was not under much pressure.
So I didn't know any way to get the fuel to flow forwards to the pump except to kick it over and hope the suction of the pump would pull the fuel forwards. Fortunately the start battery is new and fully charged.
After doing that several times over about 5 mins it sputtered and, the next time, started. It ran roughly, I assume until the full amount of fuel came through, and then settled down to a normal idle, so I let it idle for a bit to check all was well.
If there is a better way to do it with a Puma I'd like to know. The handbook says nothing. I didn't think of pressurising the tank.


Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

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I should have added that I have a Traxide DBS linkimg my new starting battery and a 110 amp AGM and the Traxide allows the vehicle to draw on both batteries so it was no problem to kick it over for quite a while. Drove it today and all is well. Another advantage of the Traxide aystem.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

So I was updating my schedule I keep for servicing and any work I do to the 110. Lets just say the list was long. I pulled the nose cone off first week of december roughly and am just finishing a few things up now. Lets just say I've been busy. Had a break in my work too so that helped a fair bit. but here's the list for the last 8 weeks or so. Thanks to the forum otherwise none of this would have been done or I'd be paying someone else to do it. cheers guys.

CUT REAR ACCESS HATCH
INSTALLED FUEL PUMP ? VDO
CONVERTED TO OILED BEARINGS
TERRAFIRMA STAINLESS DECAT/STAINLESS CENTRE PIPE ? NO BOX
MAXIDRIVE REAR HD DRIVE FLANGES
MAXIDRIVE HD DRAG LINK
MAXIDRIVE HD TRACK ROD
NEW BALLJOINTS
NEW TIE ROD ENDS
RTC COIL OVER DAMPNER
STEERING BOX SERVICED
SUPERPRO BUSHES
NEW HARMONIC BALANCER
NEW VISCOUS FAN BEARING
NEW IDLER TENSIONER
NOS AC COMPRESSOR BEARING
ALL OTHER SERPENTINE BEARINGS REPLACED
NEW BELT INSTALLED.
ENTIRE TRUCK INTERIOR STRIPPED BACK TO THE DASHBOARDMETAL AND RUST CUT AND GROUND OUT AND NEW PANELS INSTALLED IN FOOTWELL
DYNAMAT INSTALLED THROUGHT INTERIOR DOORSKINS, PANELS AND ROOF. HEAVY MASS LOADED VINYL CUT TOO AND MARINE CARPET INSTALLED ? (RUBBER BACKED)
DOORS UPGRADED WITH NEW PLASTIC LINING ALL PLASTIC TRIM CLIPS AND NEW DOOR SEALS ALL AROUND. PUMA LOWER DOOR SEAL UPGRADE.
REAR DOOR ? DOUBLE LIP SEAL INSTALLED - ILL POST A PIC - CHEAP MOD
REAR GAS STRUT INSTALLED FOR DOOR
ECU WIRING REDONE
BATTERY TERMINALS/BATTERY
DASH WIRING REDONE
DASHBOARD REMOVED ? CLEANED AND REBUILT/SOUNDPROOFED
BINNACLE MOUNT ? STEEL
CENTRAL LOCKING - REWIRED FROM SCRATCH
REAR WATERPROOF SEATCOVERS
CHEQUERPLATED NUMEROUS BODY PANELS - SOME I BOUGHT SOME I MADE
CHEQUERPLATE MUDFLAPS
CARGO CAGE CUT ? CHILD/ANIMAL (SAME THING) RESTRAINTS AND LOAD POINTS ADDED
ROOF LINING REPLACED
DASH REBUILT
NEW BONNET CABLE
NEW BONNET STAY CLIP
ENGINE STEAM CLEANED ? ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM FLUSHED
SLIDING WINDOW FELT REPLACED WITH RUBBER CHANNEL
TINT REMOVED AND WILL BE REPLACED ? PENDING
REAR ROOFTOP LED LIGHTS INSTALLED
RELAYS INSTALLED FOR REAR LIGHTS
NEW SWITCH SETUP ON DASH FOR LIGHTS
DUAL USB INSTALLED ON DASH AND CUBBY BOX REAR FOR KIDS 2ND ROW IPODS
NEW WIRING RUN FOR REAR SPEAKER BOXES
SPEAKER BOXES MOUNTED TO REAR CARGO CAGE
NEW INDICATOR STALK INSTALLED

Believe it or not I have a defender that doesn't leak water and doesn't rattle like a spray can.

It almost doesn't feel like a defender..:p

next I'll be making the kids wipe the sand off their feet before they get in..

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Originally Posted by Chops

Mick's running a Puma, I think the 2.4, not a TD5.
There's no pump behind the filter to push the diesel through.
The book says to prime/suck it through with what's essentially an outboard boat fuel primer from just at the engine. Another way of doing it is to pressurise the tank, thus pushing the fuel through.

I'm not sure what he did, if in fact if he did anything to help prime it, which may be why he had dramas getting it to run again. As he said, lucky his battery was up to the task so alls good now.

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Fair enough. Teach me not to check the build date in his sig.
Doesn't the Puma have a bleed where you crack it and use the lift pump to prime?

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Originally Posted by johntins

Fair enough. Teach me not to check the build date in his sig.
Doesn't the Puma have a bleed where you crack it and use the lift pump to prime?

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Not that I know of, it needs to be "pulled" through via a hand pump such as mentioned, but I'm not sure if this is actually before or after the pump.
Me personally, I'd just blow air into the tank,, so much easier I believe as it doesn't need much pressure.

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Originally Posted by Chops

Not that I know of, it needs to be "pulled" through via a hand pump such as mentioned, but I'm not sure if this is actually before or after the pump.
Me personally, I'd just blow air into the tank,, so much easier I believe as it doesn't need much pressure.

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Yes, I feel lucky it eventually worked for me. I have since read about this problem with Pumas in Chris Scott's Overlander's Guide book. Apparently there is some expensive LR tool, but the simplest answer is just to blow pressure into the tank to send fuel up the line. I will know that next time.
If just replacing the rear filter, I think filling the filter with fuel is probably enough. My problem was the leak from the rusty filter had drained the fuel line between the rear filter and the front fuel pump.

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Originally Posted by Chops

Not that I know of, it needs to be "pulled" through via a hand pump such as mentioned, but I'm not sure if this is actually before or after the pump.
Me personally, I'd just blow air into the tank,, so much easier I believe as it doesn't need much pressure.

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Just a thought but would it be possible and worthwhile to permanently fit a tyre valve to the tank/filler so that you could simply use your (on board) compressor to pressurise the tank, thereby bleeding the fuel system. You would also need to fit a pressure relief valve to avoid over pressurising the tank.

I had thought of doing similar for transferring fuel from my auxiliary tank to the main tank but ended up fitting a conventional electric pump to do the job.

IIRC VW used a pressure system with its windscreen washers at one stage, you just pressurised it when at the servo, not sure but probably had a hand or electrically operated valve for switching the washers on/off.

Or, if you fit the diesel care filter and water separator, it comes with a pump facility

Not a bad idea Roger, I'd be inclined to place it in the breather tube maybe (??)
I have some special fittings for my compressor, so just a rag with it poking through would do. This is how the Ford place told me they did it, and said to do the same in the future myself. But I like your idea,, save searching for my fitting in my very full, messy glovebox :angel:

The issue is that there is a breather on the tank. The rag and compressor down the filler hole shouldn't work if the breather is operating correctly.