What did you do on your Landy today?

Got the electrical problems sorted.
Vehicle tooting horn twice when locked with remote: This turned out to be a faulty switch under the bonnet which operates when the bonnet is closed. The switch is on a little bracket on the top of the firewall directly in front of the driver. The auto eleccy disconnected the switch and no more tooting. The switch was faulty, so he threw it away and ordered another, which will be fitted tomorrow.
Interior lights not coming on when rear of wagon door opened: a faulty switch, now replaced.
Dodgy wiring where the aftermarket reversing camera connects to the reversing light: Soldered in place.
He also fixed a problem with the wiring in the camper trailer.
So, it cost quite a bit for labour to trace the faults, but the time charged seems reasonable, so I just have to suck it up.
Tomorrow the Aussieswag also gets two new Hankook AT tyres, for only $180 each, which seems very reasonable.
Then we're off camping for the weekend.


Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roverv8

D2 TD5

which lead me to an old air tool set that had a 6 sided socket instead of the 12, belted it onto the bolt with a hammer, held my mouth right with a breaker bar & heard that magic cracking sound.

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Well done. Glad it came out.

I'm always amazed when I see "mechanics' tool kits" advertised, with not one single hex socket in sight. The only reason double hex sockets exist is convenience. The socket can be fitted at 30 degree increments rather than 60.
A good set of single hex sockets should be a must in any decent tool kit.

Went all minimalist...

Attachment 109158

Cleaned stuff.

Painted same stuff.

Will top coat same stuff later.

Cheers Rod

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Top coated the previous stuff.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

After two weeks of frustration finally bit the bullet and put a new head gasket on the 2.8 tdi, couldn't get the previous one to seal, kept pressurising the cooling system, and ruined the radiator.

Top tip for mls head gaskets, after fitting fill the cooling system with plain water and run at idle until warm, then switch off let it cool and refill with your usual coolant.

The guy who suggested it seemed to think that something in the coolant stopped the coating on the gasket from sealing, I have no idea if that's right but I did it that way this time and so far so good, test run up the motorway and through traffic and touch wood, all is well.

Yesterday morning actually.
Removed front axles, CV joints, drive shaft & ABS fuse from the Defender so that I could isolate the damaged front diff and drive home from south coast area.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/859.jpg

Removed the front diff from the Defender today and surprise, surprise, the head of one of the crown wheel bolts had sheared off and had been floating/bouncing around, chipping three of the crown wheel teeth, polishing the tip of every other tooth and breaking the retaining ring on the pinion bearing. On closer inspection and checking the remaining CW bolts it was found that two more bolt heads were also about to break off.
The pictures tell it all -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/854.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/855.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/856.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/857.jpg

The bolts appear to have been partially hack sawed just below the heads. The one on the left was very close to letting go, the one on the right was not as bad. Both undid very easy and there doesn't appear to have been any Locktite used on them.

I'm guessing that this is how they shear due to over tensioning?

I know of this happening to two other Defenders (both on our Madigan Line trip in 2007) and I wonder why these CW bolts aren't wired as they used to be in the Series Landys :confused:
Maybe better quality (high tensile) bolts, together with Loctite may reduce the hance of this hoppening again.
BTW I was pleased with the lack of wear in the diff after 200,000kms.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

[COLOR="DarkRed]

The bolts appear to have been partially hack sawed just below the heads. The one on the left was very close to letting go, the one on the right was not as bad. Both undid very easy and there doesn't appear to have been any Locktite used on them.

I'm guessing that this is how they shear due to over tensioning?

I know of this happening to two other Defenders (both on our Madigan Line trip in 2007) and I wonder why these CW bolts aren't wired as they used to be in the Series Landys :confused:
Maybe better quality (high tensile) bolts, together with Loctite may reduce the hance of this hoppening again.
BTW I was pleased with the lack of wear in the diff after 200,000kms.[/COLOR]

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wow, that's nasty. I'm curious, how were the rest of the CW bolts? Were they tight?

Replaced the front pinion seal on the County. Not a particularly difficult job, but drawn out by the need to make a tool to drive in the seal. (That meant ratting round in the bits and pieces to find a bit of pipe the right size. Then cut it to size and turn the ends flat and parallel.

But the worst was when I got a foot hooked under the air lose to the rattlegun, and there was a jerrican full of fuel where I needed to move my other leg to regain balance. I have a couple of nasty bruises on my left leg and a bruise on my right elbow where it hit the concrete. But everything works, so no broken bones.

John