Ordered another fuel pump primer as mine leaks and can't get the car started with it.
Ordered another fuel pump primer as mine leaks and can't get the car started with it.
Installed a Traxide headlight wiring upgrade kit. At the same time I connected the final wire (from the high beam) for my light bar which had been waiting for the Traxide installation. Everything worked first go. Lots of light.
A "before and after" measurement (with the engine off) using a dodgy light meter (OK, an app on my iPhone...) by an unskilled operator (OK, me...) indicated that the Traxide kit had more than doubled the lux reading at 1 metre for both low beam and high beam. The increase was substantially higher than I expected.
Put the door tops back on the 2a to go get the mail, as forecast was "90% probability 10-15mm"; it didn't rain!
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Just changed all the oils to my Defender at 80k. I did it at a friend's house, he has a hoist which makes the entire operation more comfortable and quick. Changed:
engine oil + filter
gear box oil
transfer case oil
rear and front diff oil
fule filter
I also had to bleed the fuel line because i forgot to prime the new fuel filter (idiot) so I got and air bubble and the engine would not start. Easy fix though no special tool needed for it.
Total cost of the entire operation 350AU$ for oils and filters compared to the 700+ from Land Rover.
It was a bit of a mission to find the right oils but with some help from forums I got around it.
I found most oils just in normal shop while I bought the gear box oil from the LR dealer. 50au$ for 3 lt, byo bottle.
Oil change took me just over 2 hours, 10 beers and 3 meat pie ( 2 friends with me) well worth the $$ saving if the car is already out of warranty and if you enjoy some bonding time with your Landy. if you don't, get another car.
Tip: because the filler cap of the transfer case is in a tricky spot, I'd recommend you loosen that one before emptying the oil from the transfer case. ....just in the event you can't manage to open the filler cap.
While under the car, good also to pump some grease in the 4 universal joints through the grease points.
If you plan to do this without a hoist but with the car on the ground it will be a less pleasant and more oily experience but it can be done. make sure you have the right tools ready, some nice big trays/buckets to collect the oil, and never ever lay with your face right under the drain oil cap
happy to give more details and tips if needed.
Happy landy
You can do without a fuel pump if needed.
On Defender puma 110 2007:
Unclip and disconnected the return fuel line hose after the common rail.
Blow some air in the fuel tank with an air compressor (wrap some plastic bags or a cloth around the air hose to make it air tight)
Air bubbles will come out from the disconnected return fuel line hose. Once all air is out, clip the hose back.
Done easy safe and simple. Engine starts straight away
The only thing is you need a mate. one to blow the air in the tank the other to watch the bubbles come out of the fuel hose.
Last edited by frenzy; 17th November 2013 at 01:28 PM. Reason: more details added
I removed this Solex carburettor
off my S2A 109 Ambulance this afternoon, acting on advice from BLknight I checked the items that he told me.
The symptoms that it was experiencing was that it would not idle, certainly run with the throttle open, but die as quick as when trying to idle. I carefully removed the jets etc blew air through all I saw was a minute amount of white dust?? just the smallest amount nothing more, but looking down inside the carburettor it has a chalkey appearance
before I take the top and other parts off, I had better check that I have full service kits, I know I have 6 carb/overhaul kits but I'm not sure what is in them, I will look later.
I didn't get to do any work on my Series 1 86", or change the exhaust bracket around that fitted incorrectly to one of my S2A 88"GS's yesterday, just too wet outside, anyway cheers Dennis![]()
If the engine is running OK but won't idle, it is probably the idling (economy) jet or a passage leading to it is blocked. The white powder is corrosion of the diecast metal, and suggests that at some time there has been water lying in the carburetter - this may be what is causing a blockage. Another possibility is a vacuum leak that is badly upsetting the mixture when the throttle is closed.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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