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Thanks guys all this is good info :) I called shane awhile ago but he wasnt sure on what shocks I should run :( so if I was to get 2x14" (for the rear) and 2x12" (for front) in procomp that should cover it? Also whats the difference between air shocks and oil socks? Apart from the obvious air and oil haha
Air shocks are stand alone units so you don't need springs. only used in rock crawling as they over heat and give a harsh ride at speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
i would run 14 rears on plus 5' mounts for pro comps because they have a short closed lenght 18' C 32" O
for the front i think use the longest pin pin mounting shocks which about 11 inchs more then enough for any rover front end. Raise the turrets about 2'
Thanks heaps benny your a legend :) well looks like air shocks are no good then :o only thing with pin to pin shocks I don't like are when there is a lift the diff rolls forward and makes it a tad more annoying for fitment ...... Looks like ill be ordering some 11" and 14" procomps then
its not to bad i had 3" springs on my 110 and pin pin mounted fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
If you want to run eye eye shocks in the front you will some pin to eye convertor which will ad and inch or two to your closed lenght.
If you plan on lifting 3 or 4 inchs you will need castor arms any way so that will roll your diff back. (if you plan on driving it on the road)
i think some has said in one of your threads you will need a dc front prop. the cheaspest way to do it is get a D2 front prop replace the unis with greaseable unis. and swap the output flange over on the tc do a d2 unit.
My ultra flexi coils where ordered as a 3 inch lift, they may have been higher though. I had the front end castor corrected by slotted swivel hubs, this works very well and had no problems. County standard drive shafts are a wider angle uni than the defender unis so you will be right and as you mentioned if you slot the swivel hubs the unis don't bind. When I sold the county I kept the coils as I am going to fit them to my 130 should be interesting seeing as the front end is lighter in the 130 as it has a td5.
Thanks heaps for the input guys you's truly are experts :) ill keep that trick in mind benny ill look out for d2 parts then.....also from what ive seen td5 defenders (maybe discos) hav a much larger tailshaft than other models.... Lambrover if I was to slot them like you had done does it mean I do not need new radius arms ? Only slight problem being the shock mounting due to diff rolling forward which as benny said isn't to bad!
Yeah chief that is correct, the slotted swivels negate the need for castor corrected bushes or new radius arms. What you'll find though is with the standard radius arms and a large lift is the bush at the chassis is fairly loaded. When I fit the lifted coils to my 130 I will be using qt cranked and castor corrected arms, this will relieve the pressure on the bush at the chassis but I will need to use a D2 front prop shaft. Never never use castor corrected bushes they reduce wheel travel by heaps. The other way of doing it would be to modify the bush housing at the chassis, rotate it down and this will relieve the pressure.
If you can afford new arms and a double cardon prop shaft I would go that way. I went the slotted swivels as it cost less. Now I have more money I am going to fit 6 degree arms, only for the fact you will get more wheel travel as the bush is not as loaded at rest
Quote:
Originally Posted by lambrover
You can just crank the std radius arms as done by gwyn lewis.
front radius arms
Mmmm interesting I looked at some QT rose jointed trailing arms but rovacraft was going to try and order a set but never got back to me :( also looked at the 6degree arms too..... With my county is it 38mm or 45mm wide radius arms ?