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Thread: shocks again !

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benny_IIA View Post
    A frame will start to bind with 14s. 14' shocks give massive travel in rovers.

    I ran 14" billies in my 110 td5 ute and have a new pair ready to go in my 90 once i get some mounts.

    Have a look at Cals v8 county build thread he also runs 14's.



    Front I would go +2' 80 series fronts (11.5') with +2' bump stops if you are running a 4' lift or +2' towers if you are runing a small lift.

    Old man emu do a long travel 80 series as used by gwyn lewis, devon etc part number 60070L. This is what i have for my 90.
    Ben

    I have been running the 6007L shocks in the front of my 110 since they were first released,for slow rockcrawling type work,I find them excellent.But when coupled with soft flexicoils over fast corrugations etc.,I find that they are underdamped.But they suit what I use my truck for.
    Your 90 being lighter should suit them more.

    Wayne
    Wayne
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  2. #12
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    thanks fellas much appreciated well i came across some racerunner shocks of what ever length for a reasonable price and there air shocks too (good or bad i dont know?) yes 4" is probably not as good but lambrover had the same lift and was very happy.... reason why i was going to go out and buy the racerunners was because they are extremely strong compared to standard shocks and i couldnt find anyone selling a set of long stravel procomp shocks with 14" travel

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    hey guys
    as usual this topic has been talked about in depth and im sure there is some info here somewhere but just cant seem to find it i have a 1986 110 isuzu county that i have recently ordered some 4" lifted spring which after calling alot of spring makers (lovells,kings,eibach,dumbrells,dobinsons) out of all those dobinsons had the specs to make me springs with the correct rating to withstand the weight of the isuzu but still maintain good flex (ultra flexi coils) they are based off what lambrover ordered from them i am asuming from what they told me!
    the problem i face now is shocks i have been leaning towards 14" travel which usually have extended length of around 35" (extended isnt everything i know but just to give people an idea) i was looking at bilstein 7100's as some people on here have i also have looked at kings shocks,pro comp shocks,racerunner shocks,fox shocks,opw shocks and a whole lot more i finally came across a site called eshocks in america that sell bilstein shocks for a good price but 2 problems 1; they do not respond to emails and 2;it looks like postage from america is around $400 what i would like to know what is everyones idea on what shocks to buy? i will be upgrading trailing arms to rose jointed ones,spacing ball joint,dislocation cones,extended brake lines slotted swivel hubs etc etc and making custom mounts to house any style (eye or pin) of shock is no problems machining or welding.

    photos of setups would be handy also
    c.h.i.e.f
    The other thing to take into consideration,is that at 4" lift you will definately need to consider new drive shafts,as you will find that they will bind.

    Wayne
    Wayne
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    thanks fellas much appreciated well i came across some racerunner shocks of what ever length for a reasonable price and there air shocks too (good or bad i dont know?) yes 4" is probably not as good but lambrover had the same lift and was very happy.... reason why i was going to go out and buy the racerunners was because they are extremely strong compared to standard shocks and i couldnt find anyone selling a set of long stravel procomp shocks with 14" travel
    talk to shane as Suspension stuff.

    they are very well priced and come in lots of lenghts. up to 14"

    They are quite a soft shock so not the best for fast bumpy road but good for slow speed hard stuff.

  5. #15
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    yeah i am worried about this but if i use standard radius arms it means the diff will roll forward facing the pinion at the transfer which would stop binding but would need to slot the swivels to correct steering but i am not sure on all that ? double cardon may be needed?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    thanks fellas much appreciated well i came across some racerunner shocks of what ever length for a reasonable price and there air shocks too (good or bad i dont know?) yes 4" is probably not as good but lambrover had the same lift and was very happy.... reason why i was going to go out and buy the racerunners was because they are extremely strong compared to standard shocks and i couldnt find anyone selling a set of long stravel procomp shocks with 14" travel
    c.h.i.e.f

    I think you will find that Lanbrover is only running 3" ultra flexi coils,we have had quite a few discussions on here about this.

    Wayne
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    yeah i am worried about this but if i use standard radius arms it means the diff will roll forward facing the pinion at the transfer which would stop binding but would need to slot the swivels to correct steering but i am not sure on all that ? double cardon may be needed?
    c.h.i.e.f
    With my 94 200Tdi at full down travel I find that the trunnion just touches the output flange on the front of the transfer case.And I believe that going an extra 2" more lift than mine,that you will run into trouble with binding because of the angles induced.I would definately look at a modified front drive shaft.

    Wayne
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
    LowRange 116.76:1

  8. #18
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    when i was talking to dobinson when i wanted mine made they said that the ones they made previously was classed as a 3" but actually measured 4" and i believe they were lambrovers from the description they gave me..... also i hav seen there is double cardon tailshafts and also there is wide angle tailshafts and they look weird but what is the difference? is there any other methods?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    when i was talking to dobinson when i wanted mine made they said that the ones they made previously was classed as a 3" but actually measured 4" and i believe they were lambrovers from the description they gave me..... also i hav seen there is double cardon tailshafts and also there is wide angle tailshafts and they look weird but what is the difference? is there any other methods?
    c.h.i.e.f
    there are other methods obviously,but they involve rotating the axle housing.
    It is easier to get a modified front drive shaft from somewhere like Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application or Bailey Morris Limited - 4x4 Extreme Land Rover

    Wayne
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
    LowRange 116.76:1

  10. #20
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    Or take the dodgy approach that i did on the rear and weld a chain at the center of the axle housing just before your unis bind to limit down travel,
    ...well it was cheaper then buying new wide angle uni's- that can be hard with rovers anyway. If u know of anyone with a 101, i think they have something like 45deg uni's

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