Thread: Tdi timing 1-tooth out? Easiest way to check?

i have always checked the timing by pulling off the front case not that big of a job, you could just take the rocker cover off and feel the valves working around TDC but not that accurate. i have been told but not sure myself as i havent run my disco 1 tooth out but they blow smoke and run like **** when they are the tolerances are pretty low.

TDC lines up with a grove in the fly wheel you can see when under the car.

9.5mm in the size of the drill bit you need to insert in to the diesel pump when on TDC and the poxy little marks on the timing case and cam pulley

crazy to get injectors serviced when you can get them for $150 each online is Oz and less that $100 if you can wait a while and get them from Paddocks Space UK. Although does sound like they are f@#ked.

They don't normally run when 1 tooth out.

If the pump is out the slightest bit they run like crap and blow black smoke not white.

White is cold un-burned fuel in diesel terms so you have a cylinder not firing so I would crack the lines one by one and find out which injector is letting you down.

It will be the one which makes very little difference in engine performance when the line is cracked.

Just be careful not to get sprayed with diesel while doing this.

Failing that, it may be one of the pump plungers (pistons) which is best repaired by a specialist.

Cheers Casper.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Can the injectors on these engines be serviced (i.e. nozzles replaced?)

The injector nozzles are replaceable, but as mentioned it is similarly priced and easier to just replace the whole lot.

Ben, sounds very retarded, the PO may have loosened the pump drive pulley bolts when fitting the belt, and yes it is possible to fit them 1 tooth out, and they will run and blow white smoke etc exactly as you describe. Lock the crank at TDC, use a 3/8" bolt or drill bit in the front of the pump and see how far out it is. You don't have to pull the front of the engine off to check, just the A/C tensioner bracket. If the bolt/ bit will not go in at all at TDC then you may have to pull the timing cover and see if indeed they have fitted it a tooth out.

Give me a call if you like 0408 995 635 at work if you need any help.

JC

Thanks for all the replies.

Originally Posted by Casper

White is cold un-burned fuel in diesel terms so you have a cylinder not firing so I would crack the lines one by one and find out which injector is letting you down.

White smoke is only on startup when cold. Hot start or normal driving there is no smoke.

Engine has 240k km and doesn't use water or oil.

Sounds like injectors more than timing then - I will fit boost and EGT guages first so I know what is going on, but a new set of injectors are probably on the cards.

Originally Posted by justinc

Ben, sounds very retarded, the PO may have loosened the pump drive pulley bolts when fitting the belt, and yes it is possible to fit them 1 tooth out, and they will run and blow white smoke etc exactly as you describe. Lock the crank at TDC, use a 3/8" bolt or drill bit in the front of the pump and see how far out it is. You don't have to pull the front of the engine off to check, just the A/C tensioner bracket. If the bolt/ bit will not go in at all at TDC then you may have to pull the timing cover and see if indeed they have fitted it a tooth out.

Give me a call if you like 0408 995 635 at work if you need any help.

JC

Thanks JC!!!! Started my reply before I saw your post. Will check as you describe.

Ben,
The difflock website has a pretty comprehensive timing belt write-up for the 300.
Have a read of it and it will reveal all!!!

S

I've just been through rectifying 300Tdi lack of power recently and IMO gutless is not a normal characteristic of this engine, if it's gutless its not set up right, in good tune its not a rocket, but very "willing" and I rarely need to use full throttle (in fact, I don't need to, just every now and then to clean it out).

I've been driving a 22R petrol Land Cruiser on LPG all day and that is gutless! Needs full throttle at all times.

I suspected my injectors at 280,000km but the best starting point I learned was to ensure the valve and injection timing were correct, set it up to 1.6mm lift like JC advises, the valve clearances are spot on and the fuel sedimentor is clean. I found at this point the injectors were fine. May replace them at 300,000 but the performance and smoke levels at present indicate that this is likely unnecessary.

You'll notice when the boost gauge is in that they build boost like a snail, I decreased my starwheel preload by 180 degrees and stop screw CW by 360 degrees and the boost gauge shoots like a rocket up to 15 psi with very little throttle input. Also adjusted the control cone to the full position but backed it off 30 degrees as the smoke was a little heavy.

If anyone is familiar with the big hill on the Hume northbound next to Lake Mokoan, I use that as my test hill and unloaded I can pull 130km/h quite comfortably albeit with EGT pushing 650.

Do excuse the excessive use of the word "I" and if I've said anything obvious.