Adam,
Not a problem regarding the info.
I have been searching for options for the D2 but am pretty much limited to Ashcroft gear at this stage unless a toyota conversion can be worked out with the D2 ABS.
I am in Warner, north side of Brissy.
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Toy conversion as per every other conversion for the centre, and then 24 spline sides on ARB locker to any HD axles. The ABS doesn't come off the half shafts or the CV's, I think its off the bearings in the hub.
If you want the full Toy conversion, I'm sure there is someone in Pirate4x4 in the US who has put ABS Toy 80series axles under a D2 and done a hybrid ABS wire setup.
Right so am i wasting my money on thesediffs am i going to break them are is it all down to driving style? Iunderstand they don't like to be driven hard in reverse has the are a high pinion!
Is there something i could do with the toy conversion to make it stronger down the line?
Thanks Adam
I would have thought GU. They're still on the exy side, but wide, good brakes, Hi pinion front and strong. They're also easy to get parts for if need be. I would not however use GQ as I think the CV's are not good enough.
IF you're comping, its more important to use the right parts rather than Rover parts, especially considering the driveline changes.
The other option that I like is Landcruiser axles front and rear with the front centre cut out and replaced with a GU or GQ centre. Bit of overkill but I like it.
i would go the sals in front and rear like hiline4wd comp truck,if cliffhanger didnt break them with a ls1 and 37's i think thats a good start,gu and gq diffs are still gunna smash alot of cv's as they dont like the big tyres unless you spend big on upgrading them
with the high aussie $ is it worth importing a set of specced up Dana 60's to suit from the states?
With all this diff talk going on there are pros and cons for every set up, as we are all rover lovers then it makes sence to use rover parts not sell you sole to the dark side, i have used a few set ups and find the rover diffs are the best evan the little ones it dosent mater what diff and axle set up you use you will break it it if you want or should i say if you miss use it, if your 3 feet off the ground and land with you foot on the power it WILL BRAKE!!!!! it dont mater what diff you have so it all comes down to how you drive and what tyres you use, that is the key, one thing that you need to take into account when you do a diff swap is making sure all the little things work thats why i sergest sticking with rover diffs i might be stiring up some **** here but cheap skates so spend your money right the first time do it properly i just fitted front and rear Salsbruy diffs and that cost me around 16k and over 2k on drive shafts BUT they worked and if you think fitting nissan diffs will be the end all than you are dreaming my nissan set up cost me over 10k. Go to a race and i bet 100 bucks what you will see is a nissan with a broken diff and they all carry 2 spare diffs. One thing i notice with rover drivers is there ablity to not spend money and find the cheapest way to do thing and usualy it will brake as they have used 30 year old parts and think it should work so you need to start fitting new parts that dont suffer from 30 years of metal fatigue, i am sorry if i have up set any one but i see so many tight arses trying to make strawberry jam out of pig ****, if you fit a CV out of a 76 modle rangie and it cost 50 buck then you get what you pay for, work out how many times you have done it and what YOU would like to be payed an hour then think about it thats a lot of money and more than a set of Ashcrot CV,s. I am sure i have stirred up something now, SALSBURY DIFFS you can do it!!!:p
Wasn't the Salisbury the Dana built under license?
But the Dana range has moved on since then, and the D60 is now a very competent axle and diff combo.
My money is on the Yank stuff! And I'd rather pay USD$ than UKBP!
(Sorry, I'm biased, I also drive a Jeep WJ.....:twisted:)