It's not recommended you go any higher than 21psi on a TD5, which is what Robbo is running now.
Baz.
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G'day all.
Just a quick update on our first trip away with the van. Well, the Disco performed very well concidering it had 2300kg's hanging of the back. The EGT peaked climbing up Coolongalook @ 580. That was pulling 75km/h in 3rd. It bucketed down all the way from home to Port Macquarie. We comfortably sat on 85-95km/h most of the way. I towed in 5th gear using light to medium throttle (15psi on the boost gauge) and dropped back to 4th on hills. EGR's sat at around mid 300 to mid 400 most of trip. We went from Cardiff to Port on a little over a quater of a full tank. We sayed at the Sundowner on the breakwall and did not want to leave. Return trip was same as the trip up, steady but gee if a semi passes without you knowing......brown undies moment!!!. Over all, very impressed with the Disco's capabilities. I feel that I am at my limit though.
Regards
Robbo
Gday all.
Some more questions about EGT's.
Does ambient temp effect EGT's to a great extent?
Where is the best position for the pyrometers probe? Mine was fitted in the dump pipe just under the turbo (its a 3" mandrel bent Taipan).
Pulling the Daydream (23' 2300kg's) over Coolongalook north bound (15 deg ambient) pooring rain 3rd gear the EGT's peaked at 580 deg. Would the pre turbo temp be higher or lower than 580? To Port and back the EGT's never reached 600. I am a little concerned about towing in summer with high ambient temps (30 odd degrees).
Also, I used 5th gear for most of the trip with a light to medium throttle load (15-18 psi boost) The modified D2a maintained 90-95km/h quite easily, I changed down to 4th and 80km/h on the slightest sign of a hill. Any thoughts, I dont want to ruin my R380's 5th cog. I have Syntrax in the transfer and Syntrans in the R380.
Regards
Robbo
rough rules for EGT if you have ally pistons (yes you do) and a pre turbo EGT sensor
in driver speak.
600 is 0k
650 is when you want to be thinking "maybe I should be gearing down"
700 is when you should be thinking "I should have geared down"
750 is when you should be thinking "why havent I geared down?"
800 is when your mechanic is going to be unfriendly at you and use words like, butcher, inept and "why'd you bother to install a pyro if you weren't going to pay attention to it?" your repair bill will probably get spiked just to teach you a lesson about your lack of vehicle sympathy.
in mechanic speak
600 is survivable, your not doing any undue damage or increasing your wear but you are technically pushing the engine so your fuel economy is out the window in favour of more torque. your engine can do this forever but the fuel tank wont like you.
650 is still survivable but you are not winning any friends in the wear and tear department, if you have preexisting faults in pistons, heads, valve seats or your cooling system pushing to here will start to expose them. in theory the engine can do this forever but your wallet will let you know about it by way of the bowser
700 is not good, very short term exposures to these temps are survivable BUT, the combustion temperature at the point of maximum combustion chamber pressure is above what aluminium can deal with long term, once all the allys heated up its going to start going west unless your engines ability to shed heat through the pistons underside oil cooling is good (which it is in a td5). the oil that is being splashed up onto the underside of the pistons will be breaking down. you can maintain this for maybe a minute
750 is very not good everything that was happening at 700 will be happening here but faster. combustion pressure and temps can be high enough to start eroding the piston lands and skirts where the fire burns down past the gaps in the rings. The heat being applied to the top of the piston is now getting towards the limit of conductivity of the metal (think of holding an ally can in your hand, you can melt the bottom off with an oxy torch without the top of the can getting hot enough to burn your hand) you are turning your oil into carbon based grinding paste on the underside of the pistons. you can do this for maybe 10 seconds and thats assuming your engines perfect, dont forget that in getting to this temp youve had to spend time at 700+ so you have less time at this temp if its been a long slow increase as opposed to a sudden increase. If its a sudden increase you need to ask why.
800 ahh yes sir, youve turned your pistons all insideoutsidemelty its time to rebuild.
for a post turbo EGT sensor drop all those numbers by about 100 degrees or more depending on how far post turbo you gauge is and how quick its reaction is.
Ambient temps do affect EGTs, on really hot days you will notice a difference, especially on long drives, I normally stop more often on really hot days.
5th in the R380 is pretty good, it's the support bearings between 2nd and 3rd that aren't, I've been towing our 1.5t camper for over 200,000Ks without a problem with 5th gear, as long as you don't labour the box for too long it will be fine, when I'm climbing hills, as soon as I get to 2000rpm I go back a gear.
Baz.
I have a D2a TD5 Auto of which the engine and drivetrain is stock standard. I installed a EGT meter a couple of months ago, pre turbo.
I tow a boat (about 2T weight) and have been trying to keep EGTs under control whilst maintaining some sort of respectable speed. When towing, EGTs seem to sit at around 650 degrees to maintain 100km/h on a flat road, and it not hard to get into the high 600s on any sort of incline. I'll back off before I hit 700 degrees, but it seems that even with a stock tune, high EGTs will result when towing. It is interesting to compare before I got the EGT meter, with several hills that I would have just put the boot in to maintain speed, I now find myself backing off the keep EGTs below 700 degrees. Does this mean that Land Rover are saying that 700+ degrees is OK as their standard fuel mapping allows it?
What I would like to know is if I go go down the remap route chasing a bit more torque for hillclimbing ability, will a remap result in higher EGTs? Can a remap lower EGTs whilst getting performance improvements?
Cheers,
if its a stock map, something may be restricting the exhaust or the EGT gauge is not reading correctly for one reason or another, you did calibrate it prior to install right?